jbeletti's 2018 Landmark 365 Newport

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Was the truck running? The Super Duty doesn't power the trailer connector if not running, unless the PCM programming has changed.

What is the "starter battery" on the bottom of the screen?

I know I was wondering what that was also..

I will be towing mine tomorrow and I'll hopefully see if mine is getting anything from the truck.
I will pull the fuse out of my solar so it will only be coming from the truck.
I just don't think my 2027 F350 is charging the RV at all...
This new bluetooth app should show me if it is or not.

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[jbeletti]

Was the truck running? The Super Duty doesn't power the trailer connector if not running, unless the PCM programming has changed.

What is the "starter battery" on the bottom of the screen?

Yep - truck running. I “think” starter battery is my second battery. Device came with ability to monitor 2 batteries. Mine are both 12s wires in parallel to each other. Unsure if it can really monitor them both if they’re combined.

Still learning.


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[jbeletti]

I know I was wondering what that was also..

I will be towing mine tomorrow and I'll hopefully see if mine is getting anything from the truck.
I will pull the fuse out of my solar so it will only be coming from the truck.
I just don't think my 2027 F350 is charging the RV at all...
This new bluetooth app should show me if it is or not.

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Like you, I should find out tomorrow as well. I’ll be towing all day and the inverter will be powering the refer. That ought to suck some juice


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[porthole]

I just don't think my 2027 F350 is charging the RV at all...

My 2011 doesn't.

Best I can find on it is that the alternator output is controlled by the PCM based on load at the batteries. Doesn't seem to output enough to make a difference all the back by the 7-way. And those wires are a bit small anyway.

For comparison, I have 2/0 battery cables running form the starter mounting bolt (ground) and positive terminal on the right side battery. I don't recall what the difference was, but the voltage at my battery connector (rear bumper) is higher then the 7 way, and drops less with a load on it.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I'm not sure if running a good wire straight from my alternator to the 7-way plug is a good idea either. It would be charging even when I dont need it to be..
I need to come up with a way to control it.

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[Oregon_Camper]

I “think” starter battery is my second battery. Device came with ability to monitor 2 batteries. Mine are both 12s wires in parallel to each other. Unsure if it can really monitor them both if they’re combined.

Jim...note Victron got their start in the boating world (think ocean boating). The "starter battery" is for the engine battery. This could be used if you had a dedicated battery for your builtin generator or for someone with a motorhome, so they can see voltage for both "house" and "engine" battery banks.

I disabled that in both the panel and the app, but I don't remember how I did it. I think you'll have to look through the manual to get that info.

 

[jbeletti]

Woot! They have Windows and Mac apps! I started reading the manual and found this.

Anyway, I downloaded the app for my Mac Powerbook. Take a look at post 199. I added 3 pics to it that are screenshots from my Mac. One shows the Bluetooth devices screen, one shows the Status of the BMV-712 and the last one shows the History of the BMV-712. I had to move from the living room to the bedroom (house) to get close enough for the Mac to connect.

Unsure if I'll use the app on the laptop often but nice to have the ability.

 

[jbeletti]

Jim...note Victron got their start in the boating world (think ocean boating). The "starter battery" is for the engine battery. This could be used if you had a dedicated battery for your builtin generator or for someone with a motorhome, so they can see voltage for both "house" and "engine" battery banks.

I disabled that in both the panel and the app, but I don't remember how I did it. I think you'll have to look through the manual to get that info.

Via the monitor panel, I had to choose 1 of the 3 options for the Aux input. Via the app, same thing. In the App Settings Display, I was able to turn off switches for:
- Starter voltage display
- Temperature display
- Mid-voltage display

However, it didn't turn the selection off on the status page of the app. More playing around with this is needed

Maybe if I disconnect the Batt2 red lead from the shunt, the Aux option will go away.

Wondering too if it make any sense to purchase the temperature sensor and put that in the Batt2 input and then select Temperature for the Aux input? Is there value in knowing the batt temp of a simple dual 12v lead acid setup?

 

[Oregon_Camper]

I'm a big fan of having temp sensor. My GoPower IC2000 already has a sensor, so I didn't add a second one with Victron. Nice to know if there is something wrong before things get too hot. I think you can set an alert (audible) if batteries get to a certain point, but not 100% sure. I know I have that on GoPower IC2000....nice knowing I have that extra protection.

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[porthole]

Wondering too if it make any sense to purchase the temperature sensor and put that in the Batt2 input and then select Temperature for the Aux input? Is there value in knowing the batt temp of a simple dual 12v lead acid setup?

Battery Temp sensors are typically used with ‘smart’ inverter and/or chargers to properly control the charging profile.

But I don’t know about the Victron equipment, my expierence has been with Heart Interface, Xantrex, KIASE and Magnum inverter/chargers. And if you switch to LiFePO4 batteries the temp sensor is typically not used.

I haven’t checked yet to see if I can turn off the BTS control but still use the sensor to monitor the compartment temp.
I am moving my Magnum into a smaller compartment and it would be nice to monitor the area temp.

- - - Updated - - -

Maybe if I disconnect the Batt2 red lead from the shunt

?????

 

[porthole]

I'm not sure if running a good wire straight from my alternator to the 7-way plug is a good idea either. It would be charging even when I dont need it to be..
I need to come up with a way to control it.

Like this?

https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/lifepo4-battery-isolation-manager/

 

[danemayer]

I'm not sure if running a good wire straight from my alternator to the 7-way plug is a good idea either. It would be charging even when I dont need it to be..
I need to come up with a way to control it.

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As I read this, I was thinking about how the alternator charge to trailer battery differs from the Power Converter charging the trailer battery all the time when on shore power.

While the Power Converter is "intelligent" and adjusts output depending on the level of battery charge, I'd guess the alternator has less intelligence, and its voltage regulation may be more sensitive to the truck batteries rather than the trailer battery. But I could be wrong as I don't know much about alternators.

The relatively thin wire going to the 7 pin connector may constrain the power going from alternator to trailer battery so perhaps the lack of intelligence/regulation doesn't matter.

In which case running a thicker wire to the 7 pin connector might suggest the need for intelligent charge function, like the Battle Born Battery Isolation Manager as suggested by Porthole.

Maybe someone with deeper understanding of truck alternators has a better understanding of how this all works.

 

[porthole]

Maybe someone with deeper understanding of truck alternators has a better understanding of how this all works.

It is not so much the alternator in modern vehicles, more so how the PCM or BCM control the output.
My truck has dual alternators rated at over 350 amps, yet there isn't a single wire or cable on the truck capable of supporting that kind of output.

I get almost no charge capability from the 7-way.

Although with my battery connection at the rear bumper I was able to use a 3K inverter to power a 1500 watt Pelonis ceramic heater. The current draw on the cables was over 150 amps (clamp meter) and the battery charge rate stayed above 13.8. So the useable power is there, just need a way to harness it.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I'm thinking the new fords have that technology in them already, that's why when I put a volt meter in the 7-way plug I get nothing from the truck at all. (With it running and in tow haul mode) all 3 of my new fords are the same.
I've been trying to find that 1 ford tech around here locally that knows something about it but they all have that same puzzled look when I ask the question.
I will dig deeper into it some day but I think my battery problem are over for now.
Traveling with the new bluetooth connection on the phone will tell me if the truck is sending anything at all to the batteries.
Hopefully I'll see that today.

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[ksucats]

Jess: Try 'testing' the brakes using the paddles on the brake controller. On my 2017 that is what seems to activate the charging of the trailer batteries. Just hitting the brake pedal does nothing. Have a neighbor who had a tester for the 7-pin and it appears it is the same way on his 2018.

 

[porthole]

I'm thinking the new fords have that technology in them already, that's why when I put a volt meter in the 7-way plug I get nothing from the truck at all. (With it running and in tow haul mode) all 3 of my new fords are the same.
I've been trying to find that 1 ford tech around here locally that knows something about it but they all have that same puzzled look when I ask the question.
I will dig deeper into it some day but I think my battery problem are over for now.
Traveling with the new bluetooth connection on the phone will tell me if the truck is sending anything at all to the batteries.
Hopefully I'll see that today.

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Do you have the dash display that shows your trailers, accumulated mileage etc? That is turned on when there is a trailer brake circuit completed. You may need the trailer connected to see the output at the 7-way.

 

[travelin2]

FWIW, 5 yrs ago on our first attempt to boondock not really knowing the BH batteries’ capabilities, we drained them dead overnight!!!
Without returning to town for a generator or new batteries, my only option was the truck’s alternators to provide a charge.
I started the SD, plugged in the 3010, and let her idle for an hour or so several times a day for the duration. Was able to provide enough current to the lights and refrigerator so we didn’t lose any foodstuffs


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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Like this?

https://battlebornbatteries.com/shop/lifepo4-battery-isolation-manager/

That's perfect thanks.
I'll wait and see if I need to do this.
My issue is only when traveling at night so not a huge issue.

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Do you have the dash display that shows your trailers, accumulated mileage etc? That is turned on when there is a trailer brake circuit completed. You may need the trailer connected to see the output at the 7-way.

Ya I going to make a pig tail test cord to put in between the truck plug and the trailer cord . That's been on my tado list for a while now.

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[jbeletti]

We traveled 6 hours today. I took some screenshots of the Battery Monitor a number of times today. Each image is annotated. Still learning this device but so far, I've found it very interesting and helpful.

Before we left home. Slides had just been pulled in while on shore power.

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Rest Stop - 90 minutes of travel.

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Lunch Stop after 120 minutes of travel. Before generator was turned on.

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Rest Stop - Note that current is a net positive, coming from alternator.

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At the above Rest Stop, I turned on the furnace to warm the coach the last 45 minutes of the drive. Voltage dropped right away, Current swung by 7 amps from +1.9 to -5.1, Power consumption swung by 90 watts from +25 to -65 and Time Remaining went from Infinite (we were getting more power than we were consuming) to 8 hours 2 minutes and dropping - all from the net power being used by the furnace (and inverter for refer). This is to be expected.

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After 3 minutes of the furnace running, voltage has dropped 2/10 of a volt, current draw and power draw have both stabilized a bit. Correspondingly, Time Remaining has increased from 8h2m to 10h5m.

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Arrived at Campground. Still connected to truck, truck still running. No shore power yet. Voltage has dropped another tenth and a half. State of charge has dropped 4%. Current has increased by 1 amp. I've consumed another 3 amp hours of my batteries. Time remaining has decreased by almost 2 hours to 8h17m. This is a result of the furnace running for 45 minutes in addition to the inverter for the refer. I very rarely ever run the furnace while traveling. Maybe once or twice a year. If I did it more often, I might want more battery and/or some solar charging.

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Arrived at Campground. Still connected to truck, truck still running. No shore power yet. This is the History page of the app. Looks like at some point, the battery voltage dropped to 11.98. My guess is this was while the furnace was running, then it recovered from truck charge current. The Max Voltage readings are a bit puzzling. This 20+ volt readings were present last night, prior to towing. So that voltage, if accurate, came from the Converter. Maybe it was a very short duration spike. My plan is to reset the device or at least this History tonight to see if I can get rid of that 20+ voltage reading and find out if and under what circumstance it returns.