Need information about disk brakes....

TXBobcat

Fulltime
I have replaced one set of break pads on my IS DB from Mor/Ryde. I have also had a rear disk brake pads and rotor on my F250 replaced. So I do know how to replace the pads.

My question is how can I find out the amount of disk pad surface that is left on the existing pads with out removing the calipers and measuring the pads.

I would really don't want to remove each of the 8 tires and calipers to check the amount of ware on the pads.

I am hoping for some reasonable suggestions.. I have heard of a small tool that you can press on the edge of a pad to determine the amount of pad remaining similiar to measuring the tred depth of a tire, but I don't know wher to acquire one.

Thank you
BC
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Bob, do the pads have the "wear" senser like cars and trucks do? You know....the ones that squeek when the pads are low on lining??
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Bob, you'll probably have to pull a wheel to get a visual. You may be able to see the inside pad without pulling a wheel though. The outer pad wears faster than the inner though so if the inner is thin, it's time to replace pads.
 

mobilcastle

Well-known member
You should be able to see the pads after removing only the wheels-not the calipers. If you don't want to pull the wheels have someone else do the check. I don't know of any other way. This is the way I do it-maybe there is another way and a mechanic will jump in here and educate both of us.Good luck.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Bob, there are tools to measure the lining but not too many use them. As said you have to pull the wheels but then you can see the pads in different spots. If the lining is bonded or riveted it has to be 2/32nds thick or 2/32nds above the rivets to be legal.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Bob, question. You say you have already went through a set of pads. How many miles did you get out of the pads? If you have to replace them again....you might look into a higher quality pad. Heck my Chebby has 78K on it and the pads are still only 1/2 worn out. I pull alot of weight everyday.
 

porthole

Retired
Mirror and a flashlight.

Pad same thickness or thinner then the backing plate - time to get ready for a change.
 

mountainlovers76

Mississippi Chapter Leaders
Bob, question. You say you have already went through a set of pads. How many miles did you get out of the pads? If you have to replace them again....you might look into a higher quality pad. Heck my Chebby has 78K on it and the pads are still only 1/2 worn out. I pull alot of weight everyday.

I agree with getting better pads. My 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD still has over half the pads left and I have pulled a heavy '09 Bighorn 3600RE over a lot of miles the past five years and much of that in the mountains as well. I just replaced the brake shoes on my Bighorn last year and they easiley could have lasted another year or two. Since you have the Mor/Ryde IS disc brakes on a 08 Bighorn 3400RE, if they do need replacing then I would say something is not quite right. You have better brakes on a lighter weight coach than I have.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Ok here is the entire story...I purchased the Mor/Ryde on 6/3/09. They come with ceramic brake pads.

On 5/10/11 I found a brake line to the left rear wheel had been flattened by the frame during a time that the breaks were applied. This caused the pads to the left rear to be continually applied wearing the pad completely. I luckily checked the rear wheel to see how the pads were doing. The reason for doing this was at the advice of Kodiak out of Fort Worth. They said that I should inspect the pads at least every 10,000 miles because most people adjust their trailer brakes so that they are applied earlier than needed and making the trailer to stop the tow vehicle as well. Wearing the pads out much earlier than normal. All the other three sets of pads were in good condition and I added a new hydraulic line and new pads to the left rear. I am wanting to check the pads on the trailer to make sure they are wearing well or need attention.

On 8/12/2011 I had the brakes go out on my F250 and limped back into Raton NM. Break fluid was leaking out. I was not pulling the trailer. The Ford dealership checked the brakes and found that the caliper, pad and rotor had a problem and was ruined. They replaced the right rear rotor and all the pads on the rear axle. I have had the front pads changed earlier. I am told that on almost all vehicles the front brake pads will wear out quicker than the rear, due to the front brakes are always applied first when applying the brakes. This has been true in my case.

So to be safe I want to check all the brake pads on both the truck and trailer to know how much wear has taken place and have an idea of how long it might be that I have until I need to replace the pads.

I am trying to be proactive. I don't know that they need to be replaced, I just want to know how much pad I have left. I would rather replace the pads early than have a problem by trying to run them low and have to replace a rotor and other parts on either the truck or trailer.

So you understand. I carry a spare rotor for the Kodiak disks on the trailer. Did this because we were planning to go to Alaska and when talking to the Kodiak people in Fort Worth, they suggested that I carry one because getting one shipped there is not as quick and easy as here in the US...

When I take my truck to my Ford Dealer they always do some checks including the brakes. I think they have a little tool that they slip between the rotor and the metal of the pad that indicates how much pad is remaining. I was hoping to find one of these little tools so I won't have to remove all eight tires. Trying to be lazy... Getting to old to remove thes 17 & 17.5" heavy tires.

Thanks for all the help. One way or the other I will get'er done...

BC
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Went digging... Found this information. And for anyone that has Mor/Ryde 7k IS and 8K DB maybe this could help.

kodiak42-07: My Disk Brakes from the Mor/Ryde invoice....

From a website. About.com Brake Repair
Let's inspect the disc first. It should be shiny from the inside to the outer edge, and fairly uniform. Don't worry if you can see slight lines in it, this is normal wear. However, if there are any rough spots or pronounced grooves in the disc, you should replace your brake discs. Brake discs should always be replaced in pairs so that your car's driveability and safety are not compromised.

Now take a look at the pads. You'll have to peek up to see them, but if you follow the surface of the disc to the top, you'll see the outside pad touching the disc. If there is 1/8" or less remaining on the pad, it's time for new ones. That's about the height of two pennies stacked. Don't worry, brake pads are cheap and replacing your brake pads is a no-sweat job.

From the Kodiak Manual:
The Kodiak caliper will accommodate GM replacement friction pads which should be available at your local auto parts store.
Specify pad:
#0-289 for Model #225 (same pads used for 1980-1990 Buick Skylark-front)

#MD-215 semi-metallic for Model #250 (same pads used for 1983-1995 Buick Century HID-front). This is my pad.
#0459 for Model #338 (same pads used for Chevrolet Pickup K30, K3500 4WD 1992 - 2001 dual rear).

I have the manual in PDF form if anyone needs one.

Keep on Truckin..

BC
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Bob, thats the same rotors and pads that are used by all the aftermarket kits for old cars. Same one's I install on the 58 Chebby. Heck NAPA carries those parts. They were used on the mid 80's and early 90's "A" and "B" body GM cars. and not just Buicks.
 
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