No 12 volt power at light and fridge

[bd2dabone]

cyclone 3800 hd 2012

No 12 volt power at the lights above the stove, frige controls inoperative but has 120v at plug in outside cabinet, and no 12 volt power at lights above the recliner/chair on off door side..this is all in the kitchen slide out...Does the 12 volt system for that slide happen to be in the waterproof box attached to the frame. Where to start tracing. All other systems seem to be okay, just on that side. Microwave has power and there is power at receptacles on that side...just missing the 12 volts.

 

[cookie]

Re: No 12 volt power at light and frige

When the trailers are built, the wiring is put in throughout the coach.
The slides get their own wiring.
When the slides are installed the wires are spliced together in the junction boxes.
As you suspect, opening one of the boxes that you have found attached to the frame would be a good place to start troubleshooting.
Since the entire slide is without 12 volts it is a good indication of being a problem area.
Let us know what you find.

Peace
Dave

 

[danemayer]

If you have 12V lights working elsewhere, or the furnace works, the slide junction box is a good place to start. If all your 12V systems are down, look for a) a 12V circuit breaker near the battery that needs to be reset - tiny little button on the edge to reset it, b) battery that's below 12V because your power converter is not charging it.

 

[wdk450]

I went through the same thing with my Bighorn recently, and had the refrig lose power while on the road and the outside temp was over 100 degrees. My general problem was that the common 12 volt fuse for these items was blowing. The fusepanel has indicator lights that light when the fuse is blown and a load (or short) is on the circuit (i.e., a blown fuse won't be indicated if there is no refrig, etc turned ON). I found on my Bighorn that in back of the refrig, in the outside access panel, 2 red wires came into the connecting 2 wire terminal. 1 red wire came FROM the fusepanel, and the connected red wire went on TO other nearby 12 volt loads ( the range area lights and fan). I temporarily disconnected the wire to the range lights at the back of the refrig, replaced the blown fuse, and then my refrig kept working. I reconnected the light next to the range, and so far, have not had the fuse blow again. The problem might be in the range hood, but I have yet to determine that.
The short I have in this circuit is intermittent, so it is hard to find, except for process of elimination, and the test of time. I am setting up this extension of the refrigerator circuit with its own small inline fuse (the main fuse is 15 amp, my inline fuse for this segment of the circuit is just 5 amps). The most important thing is to keep the vital refrigerator going.

BTW, the refrigerator has a 12 volt DC powered logic and spark circuit board that MUST be working for the refrigerator to work in ANY heat mode (AC or Gas). This is the "brains" computer for the refrig, turns on the gas and makes sparks to light the gas flame or switches on the 120 volt AC power to the electric heating element. It also lights the status lights on the front panel (an easy visual test if 12 volts DC is present ).

 

[Willym]

Bill, if your fridge is in a slide, then a short circuit may be occurring underneath the floor. On my Landmark, the 12 volt supply wiring was getting pinched and cut by some sheet metal installed behind the slide bottom seal. When the slide came in it would cut into the wires, and with the slide out everything was OK again after the fuse was replaced. The factory had located the wiring penetration through the floor such that wires came into contact with the sheet metal. My dealer relocated the penetration. I have photos of the issue if you want more info.

 

[wdk450]

Bill, if your fridge is in a slide, then a short circuit may be occurring underneath the floor. On my Landmark, the 12 volt supply wiring was getting pinched and cut by some sheet metal installed behind the slide bottom seal. When the slide came in it would cut into the wires, and with the slide out everything was OK again after the fuse was replaced. The factory had located the wiring penetration through the floor such that wires came into contact with the sheet metal. My dealer relocated the penetration. I have photos of the issue if you want more info.

Willym:
Thanks for the post, but I have isolated my problem to the circuitry BEYOND the refrig in the circuit. That's how I originally got the refrig to run reliably again. This problem started in late August, and I have had the rig out once a month since then, slides in and out, with no refrig power problems. I need to move the inline fuseholder down the circuit (right now it is behind the refrig) to the light adjacent to the hood.

 

[Willym]

OK Bill. Good luck in your troubleshooting.

 

[bd2dabone]

Broken wire found. Appears from green corrosion this wasnt new. Most likely break was from excessive pressure on the crimp point weakening the stands of wire. Then movement and vibration took did its work.

Tested with test light and confirmed broken wire was hot wire to lights and frig.

Soldered connection.

Added twist on connector and filled it with dielectric grease.

Taped the heck out of it with electrical tape and then a good liberal coating of liquid tape.

Performed this on both connections so I would not have to deal with the other connection at another time.

 

[wdk450]

HOORAY for you and persistent troubleshooting!!! I guess your problem was a little different than mine, but we all learn a little bit from what the other guy has discovered.
One question, though. From your excellent pictures I could not determine EXACTLY where the broken wire occurred.

Broken wire found. Appears from green corrosion this wasnt new. Most likely break was from excessive pressure on the crimp point weakening the stands of wire. Then movement and vibration took did its work.

Tested with test light and confirmed broken wire was hot wire to lights and frig.

Soldered connection.

Added twist on connector and filled it with dielectric grease.

Taped the heck out of it with electrical tape and then a good liberal coating of liquid tape.

Performed this on both connections so I would not have to deal with the other connection at another time.

 

[bd2dabone]

These wires were on the offdoor side under the kitchen slide out..inside the frame rails. Had to remove about 6 feet of the corrugated "sign board" material from the belly pan.