OK..got the solution..one more question...

[bobsue2]

I need to install an inline check valve based upon the issue I posted earlier...camper is 160 miles away....I'd like to order the valve before heading back up...anyone know the size??? BTW...that "Water Guide System" is a great item for the forum...thanks to who ever developed it.....

 

[danemayer]

It's 1/2". Here's a link to the inline check valve from Shurflo.

 

[lynndiwagoner]

Get a 1/2" check valve, threaded on both ends. Then buy a short, flexible 1/2" Female on both ends jumper from Lowe's or any plumbing place. Unscrew the existing pipe from the output of the pump and screw on one end of the jumper. Screw the other end of the jumper to the check valve with the arrow on the check valve pointing away from the pump. Screw the pipe you took off of the pump, which is connected to the house plumbing and screw it onto the check valve.

 

[pegmikef]

It's 1/2". Here's a link to the inline check valve from Shurflo.

I used this one and it works fine. I actually bought two so I would have a spare.

 

[bobsue2]

I used this one and it works fine.

I take it that it requires PEX fittings???

 

[porthole]

Having used a few different check valves over the years I can tell you that the linked Shurflo valve lives up to it's amazon low rating.

What are you trying to accomplish?
I've used a lot of different check valves on a variety of water systems on boats over the last 30 years. This type was the only one the was worth the effort to install.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...ss-MPT-Dual-Check-Valve-LF7U2-2-3-4/203473940

 

[bobsue2]

My current check valve located inside the pump is evidently leaking and allowing my city water hook up to continually fill my fresh water tank and subsequently...overfill it...easiest solution would be to just cut another inline CV as shown in the sketch above....

 

[danemayer]

I take it that it requires PEX fittings???

The Shurflo comes with spring clamps, but Pex crimps would probably be better.

Using a brass check valve/close nipple as also suggested will do the job and is probably simpler to install.

While you're back there working on the plumbing, take a look at the check valve on the water heater hot line (top of the heater). If it's plastic, you'll want to replace it before it cracks and leaks. It's also 1/2" and the brass check valve and close nipple will save you a lot of aggravation in the future.