Reset Zero Calibration Point

[dlw930]

The Level Up on my 2013 Landmark does a great job of leveling, but it usually levels at a high point, with all the legs extended at least half way. I recall the Lippert folks responded to a question about resetting the level point during the Level Up seminar in Goshen, but I can't remember what they said. I'd like to have the coach setting a few inches closer to the ground after leveling, if possible. The Level Up troubleshooting manual has a procedure for resetting the calibration, but it assumes you have the coach leveled at the point where you want to set the calibration. That seems a bit unhelpful; if I could get it level at the height I want, I wouldn't need to reset the calibration. Has anyone changed the zero point calibration and how did you do it?


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[pegmikef]

Dave, I think you are supposed to get it in the position you prefer (what you call level) using the manual mode and then calibrate it. I think that is what he said and I have read.

 

[dlw930]

Manual? That sounds like work, Mike! However, I was afraid that was the answer. Thanks. Gotta reduce the distance from the ground to the first step for the mutts.....and Donna.


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[porthole]

Manual? That sounds like work, Mike! However, I was afraid that was the answer. Thanks. Gotta reduce the distance from the ground to the first step for the mutts.....and Donna.


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LevelUp works great in the auto mode. But like you have found, sometimes it is just a bit too high.
Very frequently I will simply level using the manual mode to keep the trailer closer to the ground. Especially when the door side is lower.
I don't look at this as a drawback, just a feature I use to make life easier.

This may change now a bit, at Goshen we went from 3 steps top 4 steps, and that will be a big improvement for step up height.

When I do manual, I will lower the right side jacks just enough to start taking weight, then I'll level with the left side.
You don't need to raise the right side any, as soon as you start lifting the left side the right will start supporting the trailer.
And I may or not make the trailer level front to back, depends on how much front lift will be added to exaggerate the overall height.

 

[danemayer]

The "brain" in the leveling system reads signals from a leveling device mounted in the underbelly to determine when the coach is level. Zero Calibration tells the "brain" to remember the current position of the leveling device and use that as the reference point for the coach being level. So to calibrate, the 1st step is to get the coach level.

When you start an auto level sequence, I think the first thing that usually happens is the front jacks retract a bit. I'd guess they retract to avoid starting the leveling sequence from a nose high position. Then it starts leveling. If after it finishes leveling, the coach is level, but higher than you'd like, let me suggest trying this:

After unhitching and pulling the truck out of the way, manually retract the front jacks until the coach is a little lower in front than rear. Then hit AUTO.

Let us know if that helps.

 

[porthole]

The "brain" in the leveling system reads signals from a leveling device mounted in the underbelly to determine when the coach is level. Zero Calibration tells the "brain" to remember the current position of the leveling device and use that as the reference point for the coach being level. So to calibrate, the 1st step is to get the coach level.

When you start an auto level sequence, I think the first thing that usually happens is the front jacks retract a bit. I'd guess they retract to avoid starting the leveling sequence from a nose high position. Then it starts leveling. If after it finishes leveling, the coach is level, but higher than you'd like, let me suggest trying this:

After unhitching and pulling the truck out of the way, manually retract the front jacks until the coach is a little lower in front than rear. Then hit AUTO.

Let us know if that helps.

Re-calibrating will not solve what the OP is looking to do. The only solution is to manually level.

Auto level starts out lowering the nose to get a base line to begin leveling.

If after auto leveling the trailer is too high, manually retracting the front jacks to lower the front may give you two results, one is an error because the rear jacks are already grounded. And 2nd, if it actually does attempt to auto level, since the rear jacks are already down, the end result will be an even higher final level height.

The "brain" does a pretty good job, but it does have limitations. How many times have you had a "green light" yet still have other then 0.0 degrees for level?
How many people even know how to get that reading?
How many times have you had the green light then played with the system a bit, moving the jacks and still having a green light?

The system works great, but the only way to get minimum elevation when leveling is do it manually. Doesn't take any longer (probably even less time) and is just as accurate, just not automated.

Even using auto level to level the trailer then manually lowering the trailer will not yield the best results that you would achieve using manual from the start.

 

[MCTalley]

Also, interesting point. I was outside talking to the inventor of the system at the rally (sorry, can't remember his name). I mentioned that our unit always seems to finish leveling nose down. When I turn the unit back on and put it in manual mode, sure enough the screen indicates that the front is 0.2 degrees lower than the level set point. I bump the unit up with the front jacks manually until it says 0.0 and it's good. It consistently stops at 0.2 low.

The Lippert gentleman says that the system considers level to be within +/- 0.2 degrees in either direction, which would make sense in my case. His suggestion was to actually bump the front up to +0.2, turn it off, do the calibration, then set the nose back down level like we like it. Next time out, it should stop 0.2 degrees short, which will actually be level.

 

[dlw930]

Thanks for the info, Duane, Malcolm and Dan. I've been playing the Maytag repairman today, but I'll try the manual leveling and calibration process this weekend and see how it goes.


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[HornedToad]

My daughters got me a new phone and I was playing around with the apps and found it had a built in level as part of the compass.

This could come in handy if you ever need to calibrate your auto level or manually level the coach. Last time I used a carpenters bubble level and went back and forth several times to get it set. This iPhone level is surprisingly accurate and easy to use.

Now if I can just figure out how to use Tapatalk???

 

[avvidclif]

The one I have on my phone isn't real good. I can raise one end of the phone abt 1/8th inch before it decides it's not level any more and changes to 1 deg off. Try it you might be surprised, I was.

 

[HornedToad]

The one I have on my phone isn't real good. I can raise one end of the phone abt 1/8th inch before it decides it's not level any more and changes to 1 deg off. Try it you might be surprised, I was.

You're right, better stick with a 3 ft carpenters bubble level to calibrate the level up. I though the iPhone 6+ level worked good because to test it I dropped it on my floor and it hit zero, but I tested mine like you said and it did seem like you had to lift it quite a bit before it noticed.

I did get a chance to use it last night. I helped my neighbor set up his brand new TT on his first trip ever... boy did that bring back memories!!!

I had to show him how to do the bumper jump to get it off the hitch and it worked great leveling a TT w/o level up.