Trailer Saver TS3 questions

[Wolfpackers]

After reading reviews on several forums, I am looking to buy the TS3 air hitch now to go in a new 3500 Silverado, just wondering about a few issues & options:

Does anyone use mounting other than standard bedrails ? I've never had bedrails that stay in the truck (only my removeable pullrite superrails), so wondering how much the std bedrails get in the way of using the truck for non-towing jobs ?

I can buy the std bedrails from Hensley cheaper than locally, but am thinking of getting the "no drill" bedrail kit and installing it myself. This kit supposedly uses holes in the frame that the truck mfg puts in there. Anyone have experience with that ?

Do those of you with Trailer Saver hitches use the optional 12 volt air compressor installed in the hitch, with or without the remote ? If so where did you tap into a 12V source ?

What about a cover for the hitch when not in use ? Do you cover yours ? What do you use ?

Thanks for the input. Trying to get new truck & install hitch in next week so I can find a new fiver.

 

[danemayer]

Hi Wolfpackers,

I had a Hensley BD3 installed in my 2011 GMC 3500 2 years ago using the standard rails from the Hitch shop. They had to drill through the bed, and I'm pretty sure they had to also drill through the frame. There were access holes provided by GM so they could feed in the hardware for the underside. I don't remember how much they charged, but I remember thinking they earned their money.

Before buying a "no drill" kit, check that it will work with your truck. Maybe GM has changed something since the 2011s to make it simpler.

The TS3 hitch is pretty heavy. Getting it in and out of the bed on a regular basis might be a lot of very hard work.

I have a bed cover, so a hitch cover would be redundant.

I carry a compressor for the tires and use it on the hitch as necessary.

 

[Westwind]

My buddy and I installed my BD3 in my Sierra Shortbed using the bedrail kit for the truck that I purchased from Hensley. I haven't taken the hitch out of the truck yet and yes even my smaller Trailer Saver hitch is heavy. A small electric hoist in the garage would make it a lot easier. It took us a whole day to install it, including lunch but he is 70 and I'm 66 so for two old men we did pretty good. We just took our time and used the templets and double checked every measurement over to be sure we had it right.
Would I do it again "NO".
My advise is just be sure you have purchase the correct Kit whatever type for the truck and you will be fine. Oh Ya, go slow on the last hole I ruined a $45 dollar drill by rushing it.

 

[RollingHome]

I have a TS3 with a built in compressor in a 3500HD NBS Cheby. The hitch has a height sensor which adds/removes air as needed without me having to do anything. It's very sensitive, which in my opinion is a good thing. I also have a folding 4 panel aluminum tonneau cover which helps protect the rubber parts from UV degradation. In addition I purchased a vinyl cover from Hensley to use when “IF” needed.
Bed rails – where do I begin. I had a removable Slide-Rite hitch, which when removed left only 4 - 3” size holes in my bed. I ordered the Hensley TS3 to fit these rails, it didn’t fit however ! I sent the rails to Hensley and they made custom adapters to fit the Hensley, what a pita all this fiasco was ! I ended up doing what I should have done in the beginning LISTEN to Hensley and put in what they recommended. I reinvented the wheel at the detriment to myself... I suggest you learn from my MANY mistakes. Listen to Aaron at Hensley the guy is knowledgeable, polite, works with you and is a great business person, I can’t say enough about him or Hensley – they make a fine product. I ended up getting the rails from him.

I also had the bed sprayed with X-Line coating. They coated the rails too. This means when I remove the “HEAVY” TS3 hitch the bed and rails are no factor, stuff slides over the bed and rails with no problem. I can easy carry anything, plywood, lumber, drywall, cases of beer... (Nah, just kidding, it gets warm ).
Like Dan pointed out, these things are heavy. You have to have a mechanical means of lifting them out. I use forks on my tractor bucket, others have hoist in their garages.
I recommend you also purchase a spare parts kit from Hensley and carry it with you. I haven’t used mine yet. It’s like an umbrella, as long as you have one with you it won’t rain.
In closing, the TS3 only provides so much air cushioning and it does this fine. However to stop chucking action (back and forth) I installed a Moryde kingpin box. The Moryde provides side to side and front to back cushioning utilizing rubber pads. Believe it or not, I still get mild chucking. I’d like to think this is the best it gets, at least we’re happy with this setup. Maybe someone else has a better mouse trap and we'll both learn.
Happy Rving !

 

[Wolfpackers]

Have hoist, can lift. I currently have a PullRite Super Glide and this is how I get it out of my 2500.

I learned that not only does Reese have brackets that fit existing holes in the truck frame, but they have an "outboard" style bracket and rails where the rails attach to the bracket on the outside of the truck frame vs. inside. May go for that kit.

Keep the comments and suggestions coming....the more I know, the fewer "oops" I'l have.

Thanks,
Brent

 

[RollingHome]

To the best of my knowledge (I could be wrong), I believe Hensley supplies/use Reese rails and chassis adapters. I would suggest comparing prices. They may buy in volumn and they may be cheaper too.

The picture you posted, is that a hoist or a winch per the manufacturer ?

 

[Wolfpackers]

To the best of my knowledge (I could be wrong), I believe Hensley supplies/use Reese rails and chassis adapters. I would suggest comparing prices. They may buy in volumn and they may be cheaper too.

The picture you posted, is that a hoist or a winch per the manufacturer ?

Yes, they do supply them at a cost. It's not a lot, but I've had bad experiences with others working on my stuff, so I would rather do it myself. Not drilling extra holes seems like a good thing, but know that they won't weaken the frame anyway. I have found 3 different rails on the Reese site...2 are inboard rails and 1 is outboard (mounts to brackets on outside of truck frame). Two of them are 10 bolt rails, the other is a 4 bolt rail. Not sure which one Hensley would be sending until I talk to them again. After I get prices tomorrow, I'll be better able to decide which way is best for me.

It is a hoist. http://www.harborfreight.com/880-lb-electric-hoist-44006.html I got mine on sale for around $60 3 yrs ago.

Thanks for the info.
Brent

 

[RollingHome]

Well you helped me too. I thought I had checked HF for a low price hoist ??? (I will use it only a couple times a year). I lift just over 300 pounds and that 880 pound hoist will work just fine. Thanks again.

I also understand completely not wanting to drill your chassis, especially if Reese sells no-drill brackets and rails. That sounds like a winner to me. Good luck on the install. Maybe you can post some pics of the job in progress, I'm sure many would like to see how it goes.

 

[porthole]

I installed a "no drill" kit on my GMC. That required the purchase of two 5/8" drill bits. Awkward areas to drill and a strong drill can easily break a bit . My point, whomever you get rails from - get them to assure you.

If you have bed mounted rails, a piece of 3/4" plywood will fit nicely to make the bed flat again.
The on-board compressor is a handy feature, even if you have a separate compressor.

I didn't get the "auto height" feature. I prefer to set the height based on trailer weight and road conditions. At times I have found height settings higher or lower then the painted white "set line" to be better for me.

The two air bags should be kept out of the sun when not in use.

You could buy a ford with the factory hitch prep. Hensley has a drop in adapter for that. Sorry, couldn't resist

 

[jmgratz]

We used the standard Reese hitch rails on our last 2 trucks. Both of the trucks were F350 Ford long beds. Each rail is mounted with 4 bolts per rail. The TS3 hitch is a one piece hitch and weighs around 350 pounds so it is more than one person to manhandle it (unless you are a weight lifter). The other thing is it does come with airbags and shocks and we do not have it plumbed into an air compressor. I just use a foot operated bicycle pump to add air and it seems to work just fine. We had ours delivered to the trucking company dock in Elkhart and they used the forklift to put it info the bed of the truck.

 

[Wolfpackers]

Many thanks to all who commented and provided me with their experiences and advice. Aaron is just as everyone says he is, very helpful. I ordered the TS3 along with the air compressor w/ switch, 3" spacer kit as Aaron said I would need, the wiring harness that powers the air compressor, a lube plate (since my PullRite slider didn't need one, I've never needed one) and the std bedrails. The VISA card is still warm !

I then ordered custom, no-drill brackets and bedrails that mount together on the outside of the truck's frame from Draw-Tite. They are the 10 bolt rails. Draw-Tite then called back after I placed the online order and said that I needed the longer pins/clips for this new style bedrail, so unless Aaron confirms with me tomorrow that the pins he sent with the hitch are the longer ones, then I get to order those as well.

Should pick up the new truck on Sat or Mon, depending on whether they get back with it from GA on Fri or Sat. They were nice enough to trailer it, but only because the GA dealer didn't want miles on the vehicle they were taking him in trade.

Phew, I'm exhausted from the fast pace of all this. On top of that, I went to run an errand today in my current truck which I'm trading in and there was no power at all...no interior lights, nada. Hooked up battery charger to one battery (truck has two of them) and it went to max amps and after a minute or so, cut off. Repeated, same thing. Disconnected the batteries from the truck and am charging one now and will charge the other overnight. I'm thinking I have a dead cell in one of them and will need to replace one tomorrow so I can trade it in on Sat or Mon.

Anyone have enough knowledge about batteries to confirm my suspicions ? If it's not a dead cell shorting out one battery and drawing both down, then I may have a short somewhere else, but am putting money on the batteries as all was well 2 days ago when I last drove it.

Thanks again for the input.
Brent