Okay I need everyone's opinion, I'm about to remove my plastic under skirting and place r30 insulation underneath I'm fulltiming year round move the trailer maybe once a year depending on the job. I'm about to start a possible job in Montreal and want to prepare for colder climates, skirting works just looking for something more. Will this cause problems maybe service it every two years and replace insulation due to water and mold. Any other problems?
Under belly insulation
- Thread starter Scott_smj
- Start date
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
From experience "under there", it will take some work to get the belly off. Get a good impact (cordless) driver (we found one at Harbor Freight pretty cheap), and an automotive "creeper" to lay on as you move around. I'm not sure how you will attach the insulation, but gravity works against you, quite forcefully! There will also be a layer of metallic bubble-wrap material that also insulates the underbelly. It's difficult to manipulate because it's so flimsy, but don't eliminate it, it's a good insulator.
When you have the belly down, I would recommend adding heating pads to tanks and/or pipes, and add pipe insulation wherever you can. Keep pipes from touching the metal frame, a conductor of cold. Locate the feed from the furnace... You may want to make some adjustments to how heat gets down there or where it's aimed. There are many improvements that can be made, just study the wires, pipes and organization of it all. We eliminated some low areas in the piping, re-routed some wiring, and eliminated a low-point drain that was subject to freeze. (older models have these). We also filled holes in frame with spray-foam (use version for small cracks, it doesn't expand quite so dramatically.)
Hope this helps!
E
When you have the belly down, I would recommend adding heating pads to tanks and/or pipes, and add pipe insulation wherever you can. Keep pipes from touching the metal frame, a conductor of cold. Locate the feed from the furnace... You may want to make some adjustments to how heat gets down there or where it's aimed. There are many improvements that can be made, just study the wires, pipes and organization of it all. We eliminated some low areas in the piping, re-routed some wiring, and eliminated a low-point drain that was subject to freeze. (older models have these). We also filled holes in frame with spray-foam (use version for small cracks, it doesn't expand quite so dramatically.)
Hope this helps!
E
Rickhansen
Well-known member
Scott_smj,
I heard of someone that had removed the belly, cleaned up all the wiring, plumbing, and ductwork. They had a water leak and they wanted to remove the fiberglass batt insulation. It would be wise to re-route plumbing away from the frame, and install heat tape and electric tank pads at that time. Then they used construction adhesive and attached 2" foam insulation board between the frame rails, then reinstalled the belly.
I'd be as interested in insulating the slide room end walls, roof, and floor.
I heard of someone that had removed the belly, cleaned up all the wiring, plumbing, and ductwork. They had a water leak and they wanted to remove the fiberglass batt insulation. It would be wise to re-route plumbing away from the frame, and install heat tape and electric tank pads at that time. Then they used construction adhesive and attached 2" foam insulation board between the frame rails, then reinstalled the belly.
I'd be as interested in insulating the slide room end walls, roof, and floor.
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Scott, dont use regular batting. If it gets wet, it will turn to mush. I used the hard foam insulation. I doubled it up everywhere I could. Drop the underbelly down to the axles and install the hard foam everywhere you can. I used construction adhesive and short drywall screws. While you have the underbelly off....find the 2" duct that blows into the underbelly. Go to Lowes, HD, etc and get some 2" OD PVC pipe and a "T". Connect it to the duct and run more 2" duct down the left ODS frame rail where all the water lines are. Cut small slits in the ducting about evey 8-10". Loop it around all the tanks and connect it back to the "T" you made. Use a good duct tape to connect all the joints. You will not have any frozen water lines or tanks. BTW, I ended up with radiant floor heating after doing this. This is the place I bought the ducting from. You will need 2 pieces (50').http://dwincorp.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=295
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Dan, no....in fact by doing it the way I did. It actually increased the airflow inside the coach at the heater vents. I understand by something that RickHansen said a while back. By letting more air pressure escape...the fan will turn faster and not cavitate the air. Thus the fan will move more air with better pressure. I guess its simply reducing any restrictions. I cant spell volumn metric efficiency but I understand it. Ain't in my dictionary. Heater fan runs quiter now.
RuralPastor
Well-known member
"I'd be as interested in insulating the slide room end walls, roof, and floor." (quote from Rick)
Just curious Rick, have you ever done this? How? I'd be interested in knowing. Thanks.
Just curious Rick, have you ever done this? How? I'd be interested in knowing. Thanks.
Rickhansen
Well-known member
First, let me say thanks to Bob&Patty for the acknowledgment. Bob, you got it exactly right, and I'm happy to have helped a little.
Second, no I have not found a confident way to insulate the slide end-walls, roof, or floors. I haven't had a pressing need being in North Carolina and Florida for the last 4 years. I have often wondered about full-timing in the winter up North, though.
The end-walls, I am told, have little or no insulation in them. I have wondered if you could use expanding foam (Great-Stuff) without causing structural damage, warping of the fiberglass skin, etc. The only other option would be to remove the exterior skin and install some insulation.
I'm not familiar with the slide roof construction, so haven't been able to put much thought there. We have slide-toppers which have to reduce the summertime sun load, but do nothing for heat-loss. The slide floor is basically nothing but single-ply particle board, so there is no permanent mod you could do there to insulate. The only thing I can picture for adding insulation for the floors and roof would be to again, use 2" insulation board installed temporarily on the exterior surfaces. On the roof you might be able to secure them from the top side with a couple small tension rods between the RV wall and the outer sealing flange on the slide. Under the floors, again I haven't put enough thought into it, but I'm sure something could be done.
The foam panels could be cut to size, painted on edges and exposed faces for weatherproofing and aesthetics, and numbered for proper location. With the right planning and a little luck, they probably would all fit in the basement for transport and re-assembly.
I'm not sure if it would be worthwhile, but if I was going to be up north through a winter, I'd probably find a way as I don't like being cold or buying propane.
Good luck, and keep us all informed.
PS - Our rig does not have dual pane windows. I have used shrink film on the larger windows that don't get opened. It helps quite a bit, but is a pain to put on. I've used the double-sticky tape on the aluminum frames generally with good luck.
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
Rick, I learned at an early age (snot nosed kid) about air flow while working on small block Chevy engines with a 2 barrel carb verses a 4 barrel carb. The engines ,the same everything, except with the 4 barrel will get better fuel mileage and have more power. Why you ask? Better air flow (volumn metric efficiency). I proved this to my dad when I had a 57 Olds super 88 2dr ht with a 4 barrel and swapped it out for the "J2" 3 duece setup. The 4200 # Olds would get 22MPG at 65 MPH and go like the devil if you mashed on the throttle. BOY, I WISH I HAD THAT CAR BACK.
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