Vent Door Actuator??

Peteandsharon

Well-known member
Hey guys,

I've been hearing a tapping sound coming from deep behind the dash. It is a steady tapping that sounds like a squirrel has a pencil and is steadily tapping on something plastic behind the dash. It is not constant and of course it did not make the noise when i took it to have Ford service look at it. But it is getting more consistent over time and is very annoying when I'm just idling with no radio on to cover up the sound.

I've done a bit of searching on the web and it seems that the culprit could be the vent door actuator. I also read where low voltage can cause relays to chatter but that is not what this sounds like. I have also had a couple of instances where the heater seemed to start blowing cooler air and I had to turn the heat way up to get it back to warmer air. Not sure if this is related at all though.

Have any of you dealt with this issue? From what I read it seemed to be somewhat of an issue with the 2008 F250's. If so, did it turn out to be the actuator? Those of you who actually had a problem with the actuator, does my description of the sound seem like what you heard? My truck is out of the base warranty (currently around 45,000 miles) but I did purchase the extended warranty. Since they have to pretty much dismantle the dash to get at the actuator, and will be pretty expensive, do any of you know if this would be covered under Fords extended warranty? A lot of questions but any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
just go to your dealer and ask them they have a list of what is covered by the extended warranty

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Peteandsharon

Well-known member
just go to your dealer and ask them they have a list of what is covered by the extended warranty

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Yeah, I know they do have that but unfortunately lists are too often open to interpretation. And obviously if they make a diagnosis like this I would ask them if it is covered before allowing them to proceed. I was just hoping to find someone who has already dealt with this before. Nice to know ahead of time. And obviously there is probably going to come a time when I need to get it done, warranty or not. I'm guessing the tapping sound is just the first step of this thing going south.

Thanks Jon.
 

TeJay

Well-known member
You could also ask the service writer at the Ford dealer to check for any TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) regarding the symptoms that you are experiencing. Here's what happens. Customers complain to the dealer about a problem. After enough complaints the problem and it eventual fix is entered into the TSB's. Every dealer has access to the TSB's. Now when a customer goes into the dealer and voices a particular concern a good tech will check the TSB's because the work has already done for them and then they can fix it. Years ago we had a groaning noise when the AC was turned on. I turned up the radio but it was on the passenger side. Went to the dealer and explained what it did. Eventually they found it in the TSB's and replaced the AC clutch which fixed the noise. I think you are on the right track. With the noise and the changing vent temperatures it does sound like a vacuum operated blend door. When these things go bad few techs have much experience with them. It's losing vacuum probably from a pinhole leak in the diaphragm. It's being told what to do and it can hold the door open or closed for a time then eventually moves and the vacuum is trying to hold it but can't.

Hope this helps some.
TeJay
 

Pizzaguy

Well-known member
We had a 2008 F250 and had the same problem. Ours was only when the climate control was set to "Auto". I believe it was the blend doors and wad covered by the Ford ESP premium care which I had, but we traded for a new 2012 CC DRW before we had it fixed. You should be covered on that one.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
We had a 2008 F250 and had the same problem. Ours was only when the climate control was set to "Auto". I believe it was the blend doors and wad covered by the Ford ESP premium care which I had, but we traded for a new 2012 CC DRW before we had it fixed. You should be covered on that one.

Small world. We had the same problem with our 2008 F250. Did get it fixed under ESP. However, made the permanent fix with a 2012 F350 CC DRW.😊


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TXBobcat

Fulltime
I know this may not be in the realm but once I heard this fluttering noise when the fan came on to heat or cool the truck. Over a period of time I ended up finding out that a small slip of paper had slipped down the vent and when the fan came on it would make a noise. Found a long pair of surgery plyers or what ever and was able to guide a friend when I laid on the hood and looked down the vent.

FWIW
BC
 

Peteandsharon

Well-known member
You could also ask the service writer at the Ford dealer to check for any TSB's (Technical Service Bulletins) regarding the symptoms that you are experiencing. Here's what happens. Customers complain to the dealer about a problem. After enough complaints the problem and it eventual fix is entered into the TSB's. Every dealer has access to the TSB's. Now when a customer goes into the dealer and voices a particular concern a good tech will check the TSB's because the work has already done for them and then they can fix it. Years ago we had a groaning noise when the AC was turned on. I turned up the radio but it was on the passenger side. Went to the dealer and explained what it did. Eventually they found it in the TSB's and replaced the AC clutch which fixed the noise. I think you are on the right track. With the noise and the changing vent temperatures it does sound like a vacuum operated blend door. When these things go bad few techs have much experience with them. It's losing vacuum probably from a pinhole leak in the diaphragm. It's being told what to do and it can hold the door open or closed for a time then eventually moves and the vacuum is trying to hold it but can't.

Hope this helps some.
TeJay

Thanks guys for all the good information. I like the solution chosen by a couple of you but I don't think a new truck is in the cards. It does sound enticing though. New trucks always make a guy dream.

TeJay,

Are you saying that the steady toc toc toc that I am hearing could be caused by a pinhole leak in the actuator's diaphragm? That's interesting. I wouldn't have attibuted that sound to air escaping but I guess it makes as much sense as anything else. At least now the sound is a lot more consistent. A lot more likely that I can bring it in and they will hear it. I also think that mine is when the heater is in 'auto' mode. That is really how we run it most of the time.
 

Peteandsharon

Well-known member
One other thing with this actuator concept. It's my understanding that there are multiple acuators of various kinds back there. There is even a left and right vent door actuator for the dual climate control. How do they actually determine which one is the culprit. Is it simply a matter of once they get the dash off they replace all the actuators rather than wait for the next one to go bad? Since the part is not the big expense here I'm thinking that might be a good idea.
 

TeJay

Well-known member
The clock ticking noise might be the vent door moving back and forth as the vacuum is lost then regained. It could also be some linkage moving as well. The pinhole leak comes from the fact that most rubber units don't just rip completely apart. They almost always start with a small leak then grow over time.

TeJay
 

Peteandsharon

Well-known member
TeJay,

I was able to find a TSB online that seems to be dead on. It is TSB 09 12 15. It specifically talks about there being a differential between the right and left side heat when dual climate control is on. So, this afternoon while driving I turned it to dual and turned the temp up on both sides. The passenger side blew very warm heat while my side blew much cooler. I think all the signs point to this being the problem. I was also able to make the tapping sound go away by turning both sides down to about 68 degrees although it came back later.

One thing I found interesting is that it only lists a little over an hour for labor for this TSB. If that is the case then I'm not sure why some people have said that this is so expensive. The parts are supposedly arount $40 - $50 dollars with maybe an hour and a half of labor. But some guys online were talking about a cost over $750. Hard to imagine that.
 

TeJay

Well-known member
P & S,
They can test each side to determine which part is not holding a vacuum. If the part is not to expensive you could request that they change more than just the defective one to avoid having the problem again. Check with the service writer or talk to the tech that is going to do the work and ask him/her if they recommend changing more than just the defective one. If the shop guys are good they will understand your request. They will also probably be able to tell you if there are repeat problems with the system. I hope it all works out for you. Let me know when you get it fixed.
thanks,
TeJay
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
TJ, are you sure that the actuators are vacumn operated? GM has used electric actuators for years. The cost for the replacement can depend on what has to be removed to gain access to the part. GM actuators are about $100 each plus labor. Some are a real PITA to get to. Replaced a lot of them.
 

TeJay

Well-known member
Bob,
I yield to the gentleman with greater experience. You are probably correct. It's been a long time since I was into an actuator and they may very well have switched to electric or servo operated. I would befriend a tech at the local garage and find out what they use these days. I still have a few connections and could find out if someone wants me to. Just PM me and when I get back in town I'll do it.

TeJay
 

Peteandsharon

Well-known member
Well I took it in today for the second time. From the moment I started the truck that sucker is just tapping away right up until I stopped at the dealer. The tech takes it out and of course the sound never comes back. Three test drives and it's as quiet as a mouse. I can't make it come back no matter what I try. After making a tapping sound about 80% of the time I've driven it recently I can't get it fixed today because for the second time nobody can hear it. I'm a cursed man.
 

Peteandsharon

Well-known member
View attachment IMG_0032.movSo I get in the truck today and of couse it starts ticking right away. So I decided to get the I-Phone out to catch it. Not exactly professional caliber video but you can hear it. Actually sounds much louder and more obvious when I listen to it on the phone but you can hear it here. You can actually hear it better before I say "OK here it is".
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
I have a '10 Super Duty and I also have the tapping sound coming from behind the dash. I have complained about this since I bought the truck new. They replaced a blend door actuator at one time, but I understand there are several actuators doing "different" blending. Anyway, mine seems to show up when the wind is blowing, sort of like the wind rattles something on the air vent input. I had them write up a ticket before I ran out of warranty, but I haven't been back to see if they can get it fixed. I'll read the TSB.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
I also have a 2010 and back about 3 months ago, I had to have ours on both sides replaced. The vent on the passenger side was blowing air way warmer than the drivers side. They had to order parts, and after pulling the radio system out of the dash and a few more items, I was good to go. Mine was replaced on the original warranty.
 

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
Mine makes the same faint tic tic tap tap.
The noise went away for 6 months but it is now back.
Note: I've found that items stored in the overhead consule can transfer weird noises to the front dash vents.

update:..... I've read this noise is likely caused by the Blend Door Actuator rod sticking. Applying dry teflon grease to the actuator shaft may stop the tapping. The radio must be removed to gain access to the actuator.
 
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