Water in Cargo Storage Area

[Flyboy470]

1st long trip (Alaska) in my 2012 Bighorn 3070RL and I found water pooling in my basement storage area. Volume wasn't great, approximately 1 - 2 cups, however, very annoying and some damage done - discovered after approximately 2 weeks on the road.

To troubleshoot the problem I ended up removing the panel that hides all the piping connections behind the drain valves, Anderson 4-way valve, black water flush valve, and heater bypass valve. I could find mo loose connections or defective piping.I tried switching every valve that I had used, to every possible position - no water. As a last resort I hooked up the Black Water Flush and flushed the tank - after disconnecting the water hose from the flush fitting , I watched the hose drain down the wall of the cabinet with a generous portion of the water running in the gap between the faceplate and the stem on the Hot Water Heater Bypass valve (see arrow in 1st picture).

I believe this could be fixed in future trailers with a small porch type roof protecting the opening or by reversing the location of the Flush connection and the Hot Water Heater Bypass valve - my temporary solution was to stuff some paper toweling into the gap - see second picture (also shows better view of location of flush connection). Worked well for the remaining 5 weeks.

Anyone else have this problem and come up with a different solution?

 

[cookie]

My solution to that problem is that I have a 3 foot peice of hose that I leave attached to the fitting for the flush.
So when I attach the water hose for flushing I am doing it on the end of the 3 foot hose which is outside the UDC.
Any backflow leakage is outside.
I have also re-caulked that compartment.

Peace
Dave

 

[aatauses]

You could consider putting a small back flow preventor in that fitting---your fresh water has one in and they are the same size.
al
currently in Kenai, AK

 

[alaska dodge]

Flyboy470, what part of Alaska, i am in Anchorage

 

[alaska dodge]

aatauses, how do you like Alaska. FYI the is a storm moving in that will bring heavy rain and 65mph winds for tonight through the weekend.

 

[Flyboy470]

If I put a check valve/back flow preventor in line it would trap water in the line and cause a freeze problem. I ended up putting a small 'porch roof' over the bypass selector switch - draining water is diverted around opening - works well so far.

 

[Flyboy470]

We spent almost 2 weeks in Palmer (Mountain View RV) visiting our son - lives in Wasilla. Spent 1+ weeks in Homer - back home in Wisconsin now.

 

[Flyboy470]

That's what our son was saying - second time in a short while. We have friends in Anchorage that are still cleaning up after the first blow.

 

[Flyboy470]

Yours is a quick and easy fix. I accomplished the same by disconnecting the hose used to provide the flush water from the water supply - then everything drains out through the fill hose. I decided against the short hose or long hose (and went with the 'porch roof' over the bypass lever) because I just didn't want anything hanging there. Bad enough that because of Arthritis I have to leave a short antenna lead hanging off the cable hook-up due to the difficulty in connecting the cable to the recessed fitting - they don't make these things for us older folks.

I have been using the Harbor freight garden hose quick connect fittings for my water connections - works great, snap and no leaks. Can't leave a male fitting on the flush port (which would divert the water past the bypass lever) because there is a restriction on the male fitting which might trap some water. With the quick connects I only have one female end to attach to the supply valve, the quick connect to the water filter, quick connect from filter discharge to 90 on city water inlet - even have a spare hose with quick connects if I need a longer supply hose.