Winterizing water lines

pday1213

Active Member
I have a 2015 Bighorn 3270RS and I did the winterizing today with the pink RV anti freeze. I hooked up a short clear 1/2" PVC line with hose fittings to the UDC brass water check valve, other end in anti freeze jug and set the Anderson switch to Sanitize. I turned the Water Pump on and had expected the anti freeze to be drawn up into the water lines. Pump just ran continuous and did not draw anything into the lines. I tried opening faucets and it just pumped residual water in lines and air. I disconnected the flexible water connection from back of Anderson valve that went to the input side of water pump and put that short flex in the jug and it pulled the anti freeze up right away and pressurized the lines and turned off as expected. I was able to run the anti freeze through all water lines. I have two questions:

1. Based on the above scenario do you think my Anderson valve is not working correctly? I also have noticed that my fresh water tank will get about a 1/2 gallon of water in the tank each time I am connected to City water. I can open the fresh water drain valve under the coach and get water out almost every trip. I am thinking it is not working correctly and the 4 way Anderson valve is allowing small amount to flow to the fresh tank, and the valve will not draw in the sanitize position.

2. After I ran the anti frezze through all water lines, shower, sinks, washer connections, toilet and outdoor shower, it occurred to me, how do I run anti freeze through the black tank flush connection so that my black tank sprayer and anti-siphon valve that goes up behind the shower is protected with anti freeze? Any suggestions? What have you done to do protect the black tank flush?

Thanks for the your input.
Phil
 

IronJ

Well-known member
For the black flush, just connect your outside shower hose to the black flush and pump pink through it...

As for the Anderson valve I got nothing. ...sorry

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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I just hooked up my air compressor to the black tank flush valve and blew the water out into the black tank.
 

IronJ

Well-known member
I just hooked up my air compressor to the black tank flush valve and blew the water out into the black tank.
Actually that's what I do too...for the WHOLE trailer....

But I figured since he was pumping the pink already he wanted the peace of mind of having it in all the lines. ..i HATE that pink stuff....i can still tell it was in there for weeks after flushing it...and with the ice maker I HAVE to hook up the air....so I just blow em all out. ..a 60 gal shop compressor makes short work of it at 40psi....

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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I also blew out all of the other lines . . . including the outside shower.

I still like to put the pink stuff in just for piece of mind . . .
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I also blew out all of the other lines . . . including the outside shower.

I still like to put the pink stuff in just for piece of mind . . .

I too blow out the lines but add the pink stuff because here in PA it can drop below freezing and stay there for weeks. I don't trust just air in our winter climate because I'm unsure where all the low spots in the pec might be.
Just an FYI...yesterday I was modifying a couple of water lines that I had blown out using my air compressor over a week ago. I cut 2 lines and had significant water drain out of each. Also I disconnected the line on the input side of the pump to relocate it, another pool of water.


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IronJ

Well-known member
Holy moly how much air were you pushing??..lol..

Here in TX we do see sub freezing...but generally it warms up during the day ..last year was exceptionally cold though. ....and then sometimes I cook on the grill in my shorts and sandles around christmas....gotta love that tx weather....lol

Pex is pretty forgiving and I can't see a bit of residual water breaking a line. ..generally it's the hard fixtures/valves that take a dive first... l think If I lived further north I would tend to err on the safe side like you guys as well. ...

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JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I also left the anode rod out for a week just to make sure that all of the water had dribbled and dried out of the water heater.

Last Friday when I dropped the Prowler off at the dealership to get several warranty issues fixed, they asked if I wanted to have it winterized . . .

When I told them that I had already done it . . . they said 'Oh . . . !"

Glad I did . . . the customer in front of me was picking their trailer up from having it winterized . . . $148!

I did it for under $10 . . . used 2 1/2 gallons of pink stuff . . . and took about a half an hour.

This winter I plan on rigging up an easy access panel in the basement wall so I don't have to mess around with those square-head RV screws.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
i HATE that pink stuff....i can still tell it was in there for weeks after flushing it......

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I'll share my experience, when I first started winterizing I too had the pink stuff odor for weeks. What I discovered is that when I flushed the system in spring I needed to flush the washer lines as well. When I didn't the pink stuff stayed in those lines and slowly mixed in with the fresh water always giving the pink odor.
So, for anyone using the pink stuff, don't forget to flush the washer lines and outside shower when spring rolls around.
It will eliminate that lingering odor.

Peace
Dave
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Holy moly how much air were you pushing??..lol..

Here in TX we do see sub freezing...but generally it warms up during the day ..last year was exceptionally cold though. ....and then sometimes I cook on the grill in my shorts and sandles around christmas....gotta love that tx weather....lol

Pex is pretty forgiving and I can't see a bit of residual water breaking a line. ..generally it's the hard fixtures/valves that take a dive first... l think If I lived further north I would tend to err on the safe side like you guys as well. ...

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I guess us northerners are just gluttons for punishment!!! I grill in the winter in my wool coat and Stormy Kromer hat️!!
Yeah it's the fittings that offer no forgiveness and there are quite a few elbows in use just behind the UDC.


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travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
I have a 2015 Bighorn 3270RS and I did the winterizing today with the pink RV anti freeze. I hooked up a short clear 1/2" PVC line with hose fittings to the UDC brass water check valve, other end in anti freeze jug and set the Anderson switch to Sanitize. I turned the Water Pump on and had expected the anti freeze to be drawn up into the water lines. Pump just ran continuous and did not draw anything into the lines. I tried opening faucets and it just pumped residual water in lines and air. I disconnected the flexible water connection from back of Anderson valve that went to the input side of water pump and put that short flex in the jug and it pulled the anti freeze up right away and pressurized the lines and turned off as expected. I was able to run the anti freeze through all water lines. I have two questions:

1. Based on the above scenario do you think my Anderson valve is not working correctly? I also have noticed that my fresh water tank will get about a 1/2 gallon of water in the tank each time I am connected to City water. I can open the fresh water drain valve under the coach and get water out almost every trip. I am thinking it is not working correctly and the 4 way Anderson valve is allowing small amount to flow to the fresh tank, and the valve will not draw in the sanitize position.

2. After I ran the anti frezze through all water lines, shower, sinks, washer connections, toilet and outdoor shower, it occurred to me, how do I run anti freeze through the black tank flush connection so that my black tank sprayer and anti-siphon valve that goes up behind the shower is protected with anti freeze? Any suggestions? What have you done to do protect the black tank flush?

Thanks for the your input.
Phil

Phil
Was any pink stuff drawn from the jug during your first attempt via the Anderson valve?


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pday1213

Active Member
Lyle, Nothing was drawn through the Anderson valve. The pump just kept running continuous and did not shut off. I went inside and tried to run the kitchen faucet and it just sputtered the remaining water in the lines and air. Once I disconnected the flexi line that goes to the pump input side from the back of the Anderson valve I stuck it in the jug of antifreeze and turned the pump back on. Worked like a champ and primed the lines and shut off. Went and ran the antifreeze through all the water lines. Used about 2 1/2 gallons.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
The reason I ask, last year I had a similar experience in that I'm inside and hear the pump running but no pink stuff...I forgot to turn the bypass valve for the HW heater so I was pumping a gallon or so in the HW heater !!


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Geodude

Well-known member
I had exactly that same problem a couple of weeks ago. HW tank was bypassed, Anderson valve on "sanitize/winterize" and the pump would just run and run but not draw from the jug of antifreeze. I knew it should have worked because we used it a few weeks earlier to draw water from jogs after our fresh water tank fell out.

I wish I knew what I did to get it working when I winterized. As I was fussing with it I was getting a bit frustrated because the trailer is parked 6" from the side of the house, so I hooked it up and pulled it out so I could have enough space to work on it, and boom the pump started working.

Hopefully someone has a solid answer because I de-winterized this evening in preparation for two weekends of camping so I'll be winterizing again in a couple of weeks and again in March on the way home from down south. Winterizing should be pretty quick.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
There are 2 inlets for water hose connections. Any chance you hooked up to the black tank flush connection?
 

Miltp920

Well-known member
When I winterized a week ago, there is a filter cap on the suction side of the pump that was loose. I was getting alot of air, and a little pick stuff, but the pump would not shut off, as it was not building up pressure. Then all of a sudden it worked like in history, and I finished up. I had taken the basement wall off to expose the pump, and later found leakage under this cap. It was not hand tight. Now it is. I will be checking on this filter cap each time I winterize or if I have trouble with the pump.
 
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