86 outside, but only down to 80 inside!! How do the zones work on the thermostat?

GETnBYE

Well-known member
image.jpg
I have no book on our air conditioning thermostat. All our cool air is going to the bedroom up stairs instead of the Living room. We are burning up! We have air conditioner in the bedroom, so it's a freezer while the main floor is an oven.

I see 4 zones on the thermo, but ever time I try to change them, I get an error code, "E1".

Anyone have an online source for directions?

thanks in advance.
 
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danemayer

Well-known member
Only zone 1 is wired. Don't you have a separate thermostat for the living room A/C?

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GETnBYE

Well-known member
Only zone 1 is wired. Don't you have a separate thermostat for the living room A/C?

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This post was about the living room air conditioner thermostat. I even tried it with the bedroom air conditioner on at the same time does not seem to change anything. I have also close the bedroom door and had that air conditioner running at the same time. It is now 5:30 in the evening the temperature is dropping outside and it is still 80 degrees indoors on the lower level of the camper. I found information online about the zones they do not apply to my unit. Ithink the air is just being sent to the bedroom regardless if that air conditioner is on or off.
 

osims

bsims
I am not very happy with the whisper quite system in our Bighorn. When real hot outside it will not keep up, with two 15k units it should have no problem with a 36' trailer. Our previous Landmark was 40' and had one 15k and one 13.5k and would hold trailer at 73 in 95 degree weather. Both units are producing cold air, I think the problem is the design in the duct work. The units seem to be fighting each other instead of the air being pushed down into the coach. I've been experimenting with some small sheet metal diffusers but haven't got it like I want it yet.
 

lynndiwagoner

Well-known member
There should be a thermostat in the bedroom and another one downstairs. I usually run the one upstairs when I'm watching TV downstairs and then run the downstairs when I'm wanting to sleep. I would check and see if air is coming out of the downstairs ductwork when the upstairs unit is running and vice versa when the downstairs unit is working. The ductwork is all connected together in mine and doesn't seem to matter if both units are running at the same time. Really a pretty good design. Let us know if the downstairs unit will even come on. That would be significant.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
If you want to read more about the thermostat, here's a link to the Dometic Thermostat documents. Looks like yours might be a CCC2.

Check the living room ducts for filter placement on the returns. A few people have recently gotten units where manufacturing put the filters on the air outlets, blocking air from entering the living room.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
As Texas heat starts to crank up, we are also realizing the Whisper Quiet system isn't cooling as well as we'd expected. With basically 4 vents, 3 in the living room and one in the kitchen to cool more than half the coach's square footage, I'm not feelin' it.

There's plenty of air speed and the right temperature, but as mentioned, it's not getting directed down the vents well.


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Toy1Ton

Toy 1 Ton
I have a 2016 3760EL and I can tell you this my down stairs ducking does not run to gether with my bedroom ducking, even ran a fish tape threw the ducking to verify that
 
My 2016 3570RS has the skylight blocking the duct which prevents the living room and bedroom a/c units from connecting and working together.

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Shortest Straw

Caught In A Mosh
We have not had a chance to really use our AC's at the same time yet and I will be watching this thread for updates. While I like the combined ducting idea for those times when it is not too awfully hot, I have to believe that the rear 15 k ac will out drive the front 13.5 k during peak times. I have already blocked off just past the last vents in the front and back so there is not wasted air cooling the ceiling near the rear cabinets and the front closet. I am now trying to figure a way to divide the system in half when I want or need to.
 

NHCelt

Well-known member
My 2016 3270 is one long run. I have been down an ac unit for 6 weeks and the living room unit cooled just fine in Key West... And it has been hot and humid. If you are not getting cold air all the way through, they have inserted foam blocks in the wrong place. Mine had to be removed and placed end of run in all 4 locations. Use a cell phone camera and flashlight to examine the ductwork.

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GETnBYE

Well-known member
We may have found a possible solution to the l/r cool air going into the bedroom and leaving us burning up in the main area of the coach.

We ran the bedroom thermostat set at fan speed on high (either with a/c on or off). (Not set on auto, as usual).
And ran the living room a/c with the fan on low speed. This allowed the bedroom fan to basically block the cool air from traveling up to the bedroom and forced it out the vents in the living room. We could actually feel a dramatic increase in the air from the vents and we stayed much cooler.

I will try this again in hotter temperatures as the weather in gulf shores for the rally was cooler than up in north Alabama.
As per usual, when I go south I bring cold weather with me.

I will report back when I am in hotter temps and try this method again.
I hope this helps anyone with this same issue.
 

RVFun4Us

Well-known member
Agree with NHCelt. I also have a 3270 and I used the flashlight/camera combination. Shined the flashlight from one end to the other end of the ducting and it is one continuous duct. There was no blockage. The foam blocks at the end were about 6-8 inches from the last duct in both areas. Did notice that more air came out of the end ducts and that air was passing over the other bedroom duct and into the bathroom duct. So air flow was not perfect but the coach seemed to cool down sufficiently. Anxious to try it out in 80-90 degree weather. We leave our pets in the 5ver so want to make sure it stays cool. Might also help to make sure your duct covers are pointed in the right way for maximum air flow (openings pointed along duct work and not cross-wise). As some have mentioned on another post, taking the vent insert out because of a lip that protrudes into the duct work, did not seem to change air flow for me whether in or out.

My 2016 3270 is one long run. I have been down an ac unit for 6 weeks and the living room unit cooled just fine in Key West... And it has been hot and humid. If you are not getting cold air all the way through, they have inserted foam blocks in the wrong place. Mine had to be removed and placed end of run in all 4 locations. Use a cell phone camera and flashlight to examine the ductwork.

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JLDCFO

Member
New here, hope you experts can render an opinion. Jumping in on this thread as we are experiencing similar issues with our "whisper quiet" race track design A/C ducting on our 3270RS. It seems like if you turn the A/C on in the lounge area, it should cool that area off perfectly, but we are finding that only 1 of the 3 outflow vents are actually pushing much air. If we take off the vent covers, there seems to be a lot of air moving around in there, but not directly itself through the vents like it should. We first had occasion to use the A/C in about 80 degrees. Husband turned on just the lounge A/C, set it to 68 and it just couldn't bring the coach down to a reasonable temp. Once we turned on the second A/C in the bedroom, we were able to bring it down to mid 70's within about 30 minutes. Just seems "wrong" that it doesn't cool off quicker and easier than that, especially with only one of the A/C units running. Will we always have to be on 50 amp to use both A/C's, or has anyone successfully kept a coach cool with just a single A/C on a 30 amp connection? Thanks in advance for any advice, our dealer says "it's working just fine", oh sure......................
 

GETnBYE

Well-known member
New here, hope you experts can render an opinion. Jumping in on this thread as we are experiencing similar issues with our "whisper quiet" race track design A/C ducting on our 3270RS. It seems like if you turn the A/C on in the lounge area, it should cool that area off perfectly, but we are finding that only 1 of the 3 outflow vents are actually pushing much air. If we take off the vent covers, there seems to be a lot of air moving around in there, but not directly itself through the vents like it should. We first had occasion to use the A/C in about 80 degrees. Husband turned on just the lounge A/C, set it to 68 and it just couldn't bring the coach down to a reasonable temp. Once we turned on the second A/C in the bedroom, we were able to bring it down to mid 70's within about 30 minutes. Just seems "wrong" that it doesn't cool off quicker and easier than that, especially with only one of the A/C units running. Will we always have to be on 50 amp to use both A/C's, or has anyone successfully kept a coach cool with just a single A/C on a 30 amp connection? Thanks in advance for any advice, our dealer says "it's working just fine", oh sure......................

The 30 amp ? Is valid, but in hot weather, ours won't cool on 50 amp, with both running and I freeze in the bedroom. so I know it won't on 30 amp. With only one AC running.
I hope to have some answers soon as we just took ours in for warranty work and this a/c issue is at the top of our list. Our tech says something is not right. I hope to have answers and a camper we can cool soon.
 

NHCelt

Well-known member
Unless you have better luck than me, you won't get much help from a tech...they don't seem well trained on this issue.

I would suggest checking your end of run foam blocks. They have been found all over the place in the ductwork of mine and others. Mine were blocking off ducts and essentially shortening the system. Once placed at the end of the runs, AND PROPERLY SEALED, my system started functioning very well. No problem holding 70 on a 90 day in full sun. If the air flow is high and blowing by the vents, I would experiment with a heavy foil tape adhered to the top of the ductwork to direct the air differently in the ducts.

Good luck...Celt

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I have a 2016 3760EL and I can tell you this my down stairs ducking does not run to gether with my bedroom ducking, even ran a fish tape threw the ducking to verify that

Are both ducts blocked off? I just purchased a 2017 Bighorn 3760EL and my unit the return air is on the door side (passenger side) and its blocked off due to the shower. On the drivers side the output duct is open from the rear to the front both AC's blow in it. I'm still having trouble cooling the unit when its 95* in south Texas. I'm currently making a few modifications' on the duct to get the air to flow better from the vents. Any idea or suggestion's ?
 

RoadJunkie

Well-known member
Has anyone tried to create a half-height air flow diverter that would mount perpendicular to the ducting at the trailing edge of the middle vent? What I'm thinking is that cold air passes directly over the vent and doesn't "sink" into the room. An angled air flow diverter, configured to trap and redirect a portion of the cold air at the middle vent, might distribute air more evenly among the vents. I'm thinking something like this only not as tall as compared to the ducting; the optimum height would probably indicate the diverter would be homemade. Or, maybe I'm just way out there.
 
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