Convertor not charging the battery

[Peteandsharon]

cCHey guys,

So I brought the Bighorn home to get it cleaned up and ready to sell. When I got it home I put the battery in the unit in order to help the front jacks lift the unit off the truck. Maybe I'm just getting old or just not paying attention properly but I hooked the battery up incorrectly with the polarity reversed. I only noticed this when "extending" the jacks brought them up. Well I immediately unhooked and got things straightened out. All seemed well at that point. Tonight I realized that lights in the unit seemed very dim even though it was plugged in and the A/C was working. It dawned on me that the lights were not running off the convertor and the battery was getting weaker. I checked the circuit breaker for the convertor and toggled it back and forth a few times. It seemed fine. So, as far as i see it, I have one of three things going on.

1) I somehow damaged the convertor with my brain dead stunt.
2) I somehow damaged the battery with my brain dead stunt and it will no longer take a charge.
3) The battery which has not been in the unit since last year (but charged periodically with a trickle charger) was bad all along and wont take a charge and my brain dead stunt is unrelated to what is going on.

I'm charging the battery up and I plan to take it to Sears tomorrow to have them test it under load. I'm hoping and praying that this is a battery issue only since replacing the convertor just to sell it is not my idea of fun.

Any thougts from anyone that is more electronics savy than me? Could my little science experiment with polarity have damaged the convertor or the battery? I did not bave it hooked to shore power at the time but it was hooked up to the truck.

Pete

 

[Jim.Allison]

Yes, your converter should be outputting no matter what. The reverse hookup probably blew a fuse in the converter. You are going to have to get to it and replace the fuse. I believe they are 30 amp blade fuses. There are 4 spaces for charging wires, but you only use 2 (1 pos, 1 neg) there are 1 more neg and pos available. You can use the blade fuse from the other set to fix the one you are currently using. Once you verify this be sure to replace the bad fuse so you have it with you in the future. Before you go through all this, go to lowes and buy a digital multimeter. You would have this solved already.

There is also a circuit breaker in the battery box I think.

cCHey guys,

So I brought the Bighorn home to get it cleaned up and ready to sell. When I got it home I put the battery in the unit in order to help the front jacks lift the unit off the truck. Maybe I'm just getting old or just not paying attention properly but I hooked the battery up incorrectly with the polarity reversed. I only noticed this when "extending" the jacks brought them up. Well I immediately unhooked and got things straightened out. All seemed well at that point. Tonight I realized that lights in the unit seemed very dim even though it was plugged in and the A/C was working. It dawned on me that the lights were not running off the convertor and the battery was getting weaker. I checked the circuit breaker for the convertor and toggled it back and forth a few times. It seemed fine. So, as far as i see it, I have one of three things going on.

1) I somehow damaged the convertor with my brain dead stunt.
2) I somehow damaged the battery with my brain dead stunt and it will no longer take a charge.
3) The battery which has not been in the unit since last year (but charged periodically with a trickle charger) was bad all along and wont take a charge and my brain dead stunt is unrelated to what is going on.

I'm charging the battery up and I plan to take it to Sears tomorrow to have them test it under load. I'm hoping and praying that this is a battery issue only since replacing the convertor just to sell it is not my idea of fun.

Any thougts from anyone that is more electronics savy than me? Could my little science experiment with polarity have damaged the convertor or the battery? I did not bave it hooked to shore power at the time but it was hooked up to the truck.

Pete

 

[branson4020]

As Jim said, you have blown the output protection fuses in the converter. Per the manual, this is guaranteed to happen if you hook it up to reverse polarity for even a fraction of a second. The fuses protect the converter from any serious damage when you do this.

 

[Peteandsharon]

Yes, your converter should be outputting no matter what. The reverse hookup probably blew a fuse in the converter. You are going to have to get to it and replace the fuse. I believe they are 30 amp blade fuses. There are 4 spaces for charging wires, but you only use 2 (1 pos, 1 neg) there are 1 more neg and pos available. You can use the blade fuse from the other set to fix the one you are currently using. Once you verify this be sure to replace the bad fuse so you have it with you in the future. Before you go through all this, go to lowes and buy a digital multimeter. You would have this solved already.

There is also a circuit breaker in the battery box I think.

Ok Jim let me get this straight. Besides the circuit breaker marked with "convertor" right next to the door there is a separate fuse in the convertor unit itself? Where would I find this fuse and more importantly, where would I find the convertor in the 3055 RL?? By the way, I do have a digital multimeter. Doesn't help me if I don't know where the converter is or that it has multiple fuses.

Thanks buddy

 

[Jim.Allison]

Corrected:

Your converter is behind the basement wall. IF it is a Progressive Dynamics PD 9200, which there is no reason to think otherwise, it has 3, green 30 amp blade fuses (common automotive size available at Auto Zone) right next to the positive and negative wire lugs. One wire is the bare ground that goes to the chassis ground and the other is the red positive. There are lugs for 2 negatives and 2 positives. right next to those lugs are the 3 green 30 amp blade fuses. I easily removed mine with a pair of needle nose pliers. So take them with you.

If you get in there and see what Im talking about, check those fuses. There is continuity between the two neg lugs and continuity between the two positive lugs. So you probably will not be able to relocate one fuse to test, so if you have a common automotive type 30 amp blade fuse take it with you when you go in. Take a volt/multimeter with you too.

If you buy a whole pack of blade fuses and only use one, tack or tape it somewhere in there so you will have them next time.

BTW, it won't hurt you to get back there and look around at your converter, you need to get familiar with the basement anyway, its not wasted time. What you will find is there are no boogiemen back there like everyone says there is. I found out that there is nothing I can't do back there with just a few common tools. It is easier than my house. The biggest problem is getting my big butt in there with me. LOL. I doubt you hurt anything, you may have blown one of those fuses though.

 

[JohnDar]

Once you locate your converter, the fuses will be on the outside of the box, next to the fan. The output wires to the battery are also on that side. This is my PD9260, remounted to the stair frame. Your's may be located near the back basement wall in the vicinity of the breaker panel.

View attachment 31024

 

[Jim.Allison]

Those dirty rats used a bare chassis ground on mine. You have an insulated white. My white battery lead comes from a little buss bar behind the battery that has a chassis ground as well. It's all right but not correct as chargers like to be connected directly to the batt, not the chassis then the batt. Oh well no worries, mine is in my garage now with a set of battery cables attached to the lugs, best garage charger I have ever owned.......Actually I should have left it in the rig and turned the breaker off incase my inverter charger goes out while on the road.

Once you locate your converter, the fuses will be on the outside of the box, next to the fan. The output wires to the battery are also on that side. This is my PD9260, remounted to the stair frame. Your's may be located near the back basement wall in the vicinity of the breaker panel.

View attachment 31024

 

[Peteandsharon]

Corrected:

Your converter is behind the basement wall. IF it is a Progressive Dynamics PD 9200, which there is no reason to think otherwise, it has 3, green 30 amp blade fuses (common automotive size available at Auto Zone) right next to the positive and negative wire lugs. One wire is the bare ground that goes to the chassis ground and the other is the red positive. There are lugs for 2 negatives and 2 positives. right next to those lugs are the 3 green 30 amp blade fuses. I easily removed mine with a pair of needle nose pliers. So take them with you.

If you get in there and see what Im talking about, check those fuses. There is continuity between the two neg lugs and continuity between the two positive lugs. So you probably will not be able to relocate one fuse to test, so if you have a common automotive type 30 amp blade fuse take it with you when you go in. Take a volt/multimeter with you too.

If you buy a whole pack of blade fuses and only use one, tack or tape it somewhere in there so you will have them next time.

BTW, it won't hurt you to get back there and look around at your converter, you need to get familiar with the basement anyway, its not wasted time. What you will find is there are no boogiemen back there like everyone says there is. I found out that there is nothing I can't do back there with just a few common tools. It is easier than my house. The biggest problem is getting my big butt in there with me. LOL. I doubt you hurt anything, you may have blown one of those fuses though.

Good information Jim. I had actually looked through old posts and found one that located the convertor behind the wall. I've been behind the other wall to get at my water pump and stuff but not on this side. I'll see about getting my 6' 4" 240 lb. bad back self in there today. That should be hysterical. I was really surprised to hear that there are onboard fuses on the convertor. I figured that the main breaker was all there was. It's actually a HUGE relief that this may still be a fuse issue instead of having ruined the convertor. I hope that pans out.

One other question. You mentioned a breaker in the battery compartment in your previous post. Is that the reset button that I've heard about? What is the deal with that? What does that reset? When I got in last night and tried to push that reset button it seemed to do nothing. It didn't click or have any resistance or anything. Not sure if that means anything or not.

Thanks again, buddy.

Pete

 

[Jim.Allison]

I cant say, I just know it is there. I have never had to mess with it. It actually has to be fairly large amp wise in that there is a lot of load going through there. It is probably ok because you had current through there when the lights were dim after teh reverse wiring even. But you can sheck ohms across there if you have condtivity there then it is engaged. you can also check voltage it between the chassis and the output side of the breaker to verify. That is all I can tell you.

Good information Jim. I had actually looked through old posts and found one that located the convertor behind the wall. I've been behind the other wall to get at my water pump and stuff but not on this side. I'll see about getting my 6' 4" 240 lb. bad back self in there today. That should be hysterical. I was really surprised to hear that there are onboard fuses on the convertor. I figured that the main breaker was all there was. It's actually a HUGE relief that this may still be a fuse issue instead of having ruined the convertor. I hope that pans out.

One other question. You mentioned a breaker in the battery compartment in your previous post. Is that the reset button that I've heard about? What is the deal with that? What does that reset? When I got in last night and tried to push that reset button it seemed to do nothing. It didn't click or have any resistance or anything. Not sure if that means anything or not.

Thanks again, buddy.

Pete

 

[Jim.Allison]

Most DC systems do not have a preference for which way you hook them up to DC. They function the same. But motors, chargers and inverters are among those DC appliances that do require proper polarity. With the advent of more advanced lighting devices, there MIGHT be additional polarity issues, (i don't really think so but who knows). But just taking a guess, you have not harmed anything except that charger/converter and those circuits are protected by those fuses we are talking about. So if the little breaker in the battery compartment is still engaged, you did not incur a direct short in the system except at the appliance that is not working now.

 

[Peteandsharon]

Alright we have success. Thanks to all of you for the input. I found my converter and it had three 25 amp fuses on it - all blown. I replaced all three and tested the lights with just shore power and they worked fine. Hooked up the batteries which had been charged back up to 12.25 volts and it's all good. Measured the DC voltage at the 12 volt receptacle above the desk in my rig and it measured at 14.0. On top of that I noticed yesterday that I could not get any channels with the TV's auto channel search. Putzed with that for a couple of hours yesterday with no success. Now that is fine also so I'm assuming the signal booster or whatever is also dependent on the converter being up and running. At any rate, I'm up and running with no more plans to play the polarity inversion game. I feel lucky that the fuses were my only casualty. Thanks again Jim John and Bob for taking the time.

Pete

 

[Jim.Allison]

NOW, charge that battery, when it gets finished charging, disconnect one of the leads let it set overnight. Check your voltage again you should be 12.77v at least. 12.25v is over 50% discharged. 12.77 or higher perhaps 13v is considered a full charge, depending on what battery you have. If you need that battery and it is not holding between 12.6 and 12.77 for 24 hours you may need to replace it. I prefer 12.77 or better. If it is a newer battery and it won't hold a full charge according to their charging tables or specific gravity test for that battery you may be able to get a warranty replacement. I use a multimeter to check my batteries, but the best way to check them is specific gravity.

Notwithstanding what I said above; if you depend on those batteries, I would replace with TRUE deep cycle batteries. IF it says RV/Marine on it it is not a true deep cycle battery. What you need is industrial batteries. Some recommend 2 6v golf cart batteries in series. I think that 2 12v in parallel is better in most respects. The upshot is that although 2 brand new 12v interstates will look great in your battery box, two Trojan Deep Cycles will be even better.

Alright we have success. Thanks to all of you for the input. I found my converter and it had three 25 amp fuses on it - all blown. I replaced all three and tested the lights with just shore power and they worked fine. Hooked up the batteries which had been charged back up to 12.25 volts and it's all good. Measured the DC voltage at the 12 volt receptacle above the desk in my rig and it measured at 14.0. On top of that I noticed yesterday that I could not get any channels with the TV's auto channel search. Putzed with that for a couple of hours yesterday with no success. Now that is fine also so I'm assuming the signal booster or whatever is also dependent on the converter being up and running. At any rate, I'm up and running with no more plans to play the polarity inversion game. I feel lucky that the fuses were my only casualty. Thanks again Jim John and Bob for taking the time.

Pete

 

[Peteandsharon]

NOW, charge that battery, when it gets finished charging, disconnect one of the leads let it set overnight. Check your voltage again you should be 12.77v at least. 12.25v is over 50% discharged. 12.77 or higher perhaps 13v is considered a full charge, depending on what battery you have. If you need that battery and it is not holding between 12.6 and 12.77 for 24 hours you may need to replace it. I prefer 12.77 or better. If it is a newer battery and it won't hold a full charge according to their charging tables or specific gravity test for that battery you may be able to get a warranty replacement. I use a multimeter to check my batteries, but the best way to check them is specific gravity.

Notwithstanding what I said above; if you depend on those batteries, I would replace with TRUE deep cycle batteries. IF it says RV/Marine on it it is not a true deep cycle battery. What you need is industrial batteries. Some recommend 2 6v golf cart batteries in series. I think that 2 12v in parallel is better in most respects. The upshot is that although 2 brand new 12v interstates will look great in your battery box, two Trojan Deep Cycles will be even better.

Thanks Jim. I understand that 12.25 is not fully charged but it had gotten down to 10.5 without a load so I had charged it up to the point where I would feel comfortable putting it back in and letting the converter finish the charge. However, as to replacing the battery, I brought my rig home to get it ready to put it on the market. Unfortunately it is that time. So, if in fact the battery is not quite up to snuff, that is an expense that I will leave to the new owner. I'm going to be putting in $425 this weekend to have the exterior completely detailed so I figure the new owner (if there is a new owner) can take the battery expense (if necessary).

Thank and take care,

 

[Jim.Allison]

Yea I get it, that progressive will charge better than anything you can buy anywhere else, If the batt was coming up then it will probably be ok. If I was selling, i would not concern myself with batts either, at least to the point that it works. The wash job will mean more to you and him/her. In my imagination I thought you had a big campout coming up and you were getting rigged for it. LOL. Im glad you found your problem and fixed it. I was just excited that you got it going, and wanted to see you get it all juiced up. LOL Have a good one........