Using the Refer on battery power.

Bogie

Well-known member
After over 30 years in our old trusty tent trailer, we finally made the jump grander digs. We found a very gently used 2011 Sundance 245 RL 5[SUP]th[/SUP] wheel. As I have been trying to get up to speed on the on-board systems that are new to me I have come across a question I hope someone can help with.


While on shore power, with the Refer on “Auto”, I occasionally hear a sound (like a fan running) coming from the Refer. I thought this was because I was on shore power and the Refer was running on AC. I recently removed the Refer inspection cover and found that, while there is an AC outlet in the compartment, the AC plug from the Refer wasn’t plugged in. .


We do a fair amount of dry camping and I am anticipating battery management over a weeks time. Right now I have one deep cycle 12V battery. I have to assume that since the AC was unplugged, that the Refer still uses some amount of battery power when operating on propane. Does anyone know how much the Refer draws down the battery over time? (It’s a Dometic DM2652) Thanks :confused:
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Bogie,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. There's lots of useful information here along with a great bunch of friendly and helpful people.

In LP mode, RV refrigerators typically use 12V power to run the circuit board, propane valve, igniter, and any cooling fans. The energy for the main cooling process comes from the propane. In order to cool, air has to flow across the components on the backside of the refrigerator, more so when the unit is mounted in a slide out as many of ours are. It's typical to have a 12V fan(s) helping to move air. Most fans are on a thermostat so they don't draw power except when needed. In hot weather, the fan(s) will run a lot.

We have the larger 4 door RM1350 with a couple of fans on the back. Once on my original battery, I ran it for 48 hours in storage to prep for a trip. The battery didn't have enough power left to run the hydraulic landing gear or start the generator. I"m not sure how typical that is, but your fridge probably draws less power, and perhaps your battery is newer.

If someone knows the average current drain for your Dometic 2652, I'm sure they'll chime in.
 

Rickhansen

Well-known member
Hi Bogie,
In addition to the information Dan provided, your trailer has several other 12 volt loads that you must consider when dry camping. The furnace, A/C's, and water heater control boards, and LP detector also have "parasitic" 12 volt loads. Of course you will also have expected loads for any lights, the water pump, vent fans, etc. that you use. There have been many discussions on the forum in years past that you should be able to find with the Forum's search utility and the usual key words.

With just the parasitic loads and one 12 volt battery, most estimates are that you MIGHT get a couple days use without any shore power or other external charging.

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Group.
 

Bogie

Well-known member
Gentlemen,

Thank you for the info, especially regarding the other parasitic loads. I can probably mitigate some of that by pulling fuses on specific equipment when not needed (AC for example). I was planning on changing the single battery to two 6V golf cart batteries eventually, so I may have to accelerate that plan. I also have a small 600W generator, so I won't have to rely on the battery alone. Once again, thanks for the info.

Bogie
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
The refrigerator will only run on 120 Volt AC or Propane. There is no 12 Volt mode in the Sundance. The refrigerator in the Pop-up probably had a 12 volt mode (our pop-up did). When in the auto-mode your refrigerator will default to Propane when not plugged into AC. So if your refrigerator was not plugged in to the outlet behind the unit it was running on Propane when set in the Auto mode. When you plug into the outlet behind the 'fridge and then plug the coach into AC power it will default to AC when set in the Auto mode. The 12 volts is needed to run the control board on the Fridge. How this clears it up. Keep in mind if you are set in the Auto mode and then go traveling down the road the Fridge will run on Propane. Many turn off the fridge when traveling to keep from running propane while moving down the road and to prevent an explosion from gasoline fumes when fueling. But that is another discussion, i.e. should you or should you not keep the Propane on when traveling. Just keep in mind the Refrigerator will not run on 12 volts at all whether you are traveling or stationary.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
After over 30 years in our old trusty tent trailer, we finally made the jump grander digs. We found a very gently used 2011 Sundance 245 RL 5[SUP]th[/SUP] wheel. As I have been trying to get up to speed on the on-board systems that are new to me I have come across a question I hope someone can help with.


While on shore power, with the Refer on “Auto”, I occasionally hear a sound (like a fan running) coming from the Refer. I thought this was because I was on shore power and the Refer was running on AC. I recently removed the Refer inspection cover and found that, while there is an AC outlet in the compartment, the AC plug from the Refer wasn’t plugged in. .


We do a fair amount of dry camping and I am anticipating battery management over a weeks time. Right now I have one deep cycle 12V battery. I have to assume that since the AC was unplugged, that the Refer still uses some amount of battery power when operating on propane. Does anyone know how much the Refer draws down the battery over time? (It’s a Dometic DM2652) Thanks :confused:

Bogie:
My dealer upgraded my rig to 2 batteries before I left the lot. I have since added 2 more to support my inverter system. If it doesn't ruin your idea of dry camping, I would think about getting a small generator to recharge the batteries, or to run anything 110 volt you just can't live without (hairdryer, microwave?). A 1500 watt or more would be enough to run the microwave, the batteries will charge on a lot less. A lot of RVers have the Honda 2000, and are even able to run their air conditioner on it. It's very quiet, lightweight. and fuel efficient. I think it costs right at $1000. Of course, being a Californian, any generator you buy will have to be CARB compliant. Many people have posted that the lower cost Champion generators are nearly as good. You can get the generator to do double duty by keeping it at home with an extension cord to run it away from the house (carbon monoxide issues) in case of an electrical outage, to keep your refrigerator from spoiling food.
The unplugged plug MIGHT be for an icemaker in the freezer, but many times the refrigerator's main power is unplugged when the trailer is shipped new from the factory. Your refrigerator operating panel should have status lights that tell you if the refrigerator is running on propane or AC power. The logic circuit board for the refrigerator (run by 12 volts DC) will know if AC power is present (if the refrigerator is plugged in and the breaker is on) and will preferentially run off of AC power instead of propane gas, if in the "Auto" mode. The fans you heard are the 12 volt DC cooling fans in the outside venting area, where the heat removed from the inside of the refrigerator is dissipated. Like Dan said in his reply, these fans cycle on and off.
BTW, if you need any operating or systems manuals for appliances and support systems in the trailer, there is a comprehensive online library on this website. At the top of every forum page there is a tab that says "Tools". The drop down menu has "Heartland Manuals" as one of the choices. Follow the following submenus to find what you want, or just explore what info is there.
 

scottyb

Well-known member
My experiment included the exchange of 2 x 6V batteries for the initial 12V. I added a 2500W inverter (inexpensive) and wanted to run the main TV, and Dish for the evening. Then I wanted to run the coffee maker in the AM. I was unable to do so, althgough, on paper, it appeared that i shouild have been able to do so. This must have been due to the "parasitic drain" factor. I will upgrade my batteries to 4 x 6V before my next trip, then decide if I want to commit further with a high end charger / inverter.
 
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