We have a 2013 Bighorn 3585. We keep this at an RV park at the lake in northern Oklahoma. We are going to winterize our trailer shortly but I have a question. I can winterize the unit and slide the slides in and cover with an ADCO type cover or I can winterize, slide the slides in and then run the heater at a low temperature for the winter but without the cover since the cover would the heater vents. I would be interested in any advise or suggestions. Thanks, J.B. and Robbie
Winterizing Bighorn 3585
- Thread starter J.B.
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi J.B.,
I doubt very many people heat their empty RV after they're winterized and I'm not sure why you'd want to do so. But if you did, the furnace won't run for very long on batteries, so you'd have to be on shore power and would have to check propane levels frequently.
Opinions on covers are mixed. Some people use them; many don't.
I doubt very many people heat their empty RV after they're winterized and I'm not sure why you'd want to do so. But if you did, the furnace won't run for very long on batteries, so you'd have to be on shore power and would have to check propane levels frequently.
Opinions on covers are mixed. Some people use them; many don't.
JanAndBill
Well-known member
The best solution is to pull it south and continue to use it 
but if you can't do that then, winterize it. We bought an adaptor to blow out the water lines and a little hand pump to pump antifreeze into the lines, both are available at most RV supply stores. A small air compressor will supply enough air to blow out all your lines, be sure to keep your pressure low. If your water heater has a bypass then close the valves and drain it. I install the adapter at the water inlet and apply air to the fitting, my wife goes to each faucet one at a time and opens them, until all the water is forced out. Once that's done I hook up the pump and pump RV antifreeze while she opens each faucet. Once we have anitfreeze at each faucet we are done. I've never left the heat on once the lines were winterized.
but if you can't do that then, winterize it. We bought an adaptor to blow out the water lines and a little hand pump to pump antifreeze into the lines, both are available at most RV supply stores. A small air compressor will supply enough air to blow out all your lines, be sure to keep your pressure low. If your water heater has a bypass then close the valves and drain it. I install the adapter at the water inlet and apply air to the fitting, my wife goes to each faucet one at a time and opens them, until all the water is forced out. Once that's done I hook up the pump and pump RV antifreeze while she opens each faucet. Once we have anitfreeze at each faucet we are done. I've never left the heat on once the lines were winterized.
GOTTOYS
Well-known member
Drain the water heater by removing the anode rod/plug. Switch the winterizing valves (2) to the Winter position. Add a small hose to you winterizing suction line. It will take a 1/2" pipe thread to hose fitting if I remember correctly. A cheap plastic fitting is okay. You will need 2 gallons of RV anti-freeze. Drop the hose in the anti-freeze jug. Have you water pump turned on. Open each faucet, hot and cold separately, and run it just until you see the pink antifreeze come out. Don't forget to also run the toilet and your wash machine lines whether you have a washer or not. On the outside flush both the hot and cold sides of your outside shower. Nothing else should be needed to winterize the water system. Turn off the pump and smile. You just saved the $75.00 or so a dealer would charge and it took about 10 minutes of your time. Before you do this be sure you have emptied all your tanks especially the fresh water tank. In the Spring just run water through your system until the pink antifreeze is gone...Don
VLaurie1799
Member
I have a 2011 Big Horn 3185RL.I winterize the same as GOTTOYS. Two questions what about the black flush, does it hurt the anti syphon valve to use compresed air threw the fitting, compressor set at 60 PSI, or is it self draining and I don't have to worry. Also have never found the low point drains that are on the winterize instructions inside a compartment door, do some models not have these? Thanks Laurie
danemayer
Well-known member
You do need to winterize the black flush since there may be standing water in the pex lines and anti-siphon valve. It's ok to blow air through the fitting, although 60psi might be a bit high. I usually keep pressure between 20 and 40psi.
Low point drains were eliminated by Heartland on most if not all models. You should have a drain for the fresh water tank and if you have washer prep, there should be an overflow drain hose.
For more info, there are some owner-written user guides, including a Winterizing Guide at this link.
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