Hi there, sorry to just jump in but I am dealing with a similar problem. Have you checked the continuity from the plug end back to the ATS?
My story:
I have a 2013 Heartland Landmark San Antonio (50amp).
In November, my furnace suddenly stopped working. After thorough testing I replaced the circuit board (with a Dinosaur Electronics board) and it's been fine.
A few weeks later my water heater stopped working on AC. Tested the element and it needed replacing BUT, there was no power at the element. The wires connecting the element were fried. I rewired a new element (changed the anode too) and it's been fine.
Beginning of January, my AC power suddenly went out. I checked the pedestal, the surge protector, all breakers and fuses, and the batteries. The main pedestal breaker had tripped. I turned it back on and it would trip immediately after the surge protector time-out was done. I started shutting off breakers to see if I could isolate the problem. When I turned off the battery cutoff switch, the pedestal breaker would not trip but there was still no AC power. I disconnected the battery leads and everything worked. Went and got new batteries and all was good.
2 weeks later, lost one leg of power for 30 minutes. Confused but figured it was a power company thing as things started working again.
2 days later the AC power went out again. Same deal as before with the main pedestal breaker tripping. Switched to generator and everything was fine. Started testing things. Pulled out the converter. Couldn't fix it. Different power pedestal, same problem. Ran an extension cord from a non-GFCI 120 outlet and things were working again, as much as they can on the reduced power. Replaced the 50amp breaker in the pedestal, tried again and it popped right away. Ok, ATS problem. I then checked the resistance in the original power cord. From the plug head back to the motorized cord reel (I took the panel off the reel with all the cord pulled out). Fine. Then from the plug head to the ATS and that's where I found the one hot line was open and the other hot line had a lot of resistance. The neutral and the ground both ohm-ed out fine. So, there is a problem between the cord reel and the ATS on my RV. I went to Big R (similar to Tractor Supply) and got some 6/3 wire (20') and a Cooper 50amp male plug end and made a new cord. I took the guts out of the old ATS and used some 6-gage wire nuts to splice in my new cord directly to the load side and everything works again. I bought a new ATS (PD52) and I will deal with that and the cord reel when the weather is nicer. I now wish I had bought the PD52DCSDV like you.
Your situation sounds a bit like mine, so I would also check your power cord if you haven't already.
My story:
I have a 2013 Heartland Landmark San Antonio (50amp).
In November, my furnace suddenly stopped working. After thorough testing I replaced the circuit board (with a Dinosaur Electronics board) and it's been fine.
A few weeks later my water heater stopped working on AC. Tested the element and it needed replacing BUT, there was no power at the element. The wires connecting the element were fried. I rewired a new element (changed the anode too) and it's been fine.
Beginning of January, my AC power suddenly went out. I checked the pedestal, the surge protector, all breakers and fuses, and the batteries. The main pedestal breaker had tripped. I turned it back on and it would trip immediately after the surge protector time-out was done. I started shutting off breakers to see if I could isolate the problem. When I turned off the battery cutoff switch, the pedestal breaker would not trip but there was still no AC power. I disconnected the battery leads and everything worked. Went and got new batteries and all was good.
2 weeks later, lost one leg of power for 30 minutes. Confused but figured it was a power company thing as things started working again.
2 days later the AC power went out again. Same deal as before with the main pedestal breaker tripping. Switched to generator and everything was fine. Started testing things. Pulled out the converter. Couldn't fix it. Different power pedestal, same problem. Ran an extension cord from a non-GFCI 120 outlet and things were working again, as much as they can on the reduced power. Replaced the 50amp breaker in the pedestal, tried again and it popped right away. Ok, ATS problem. I then checked the resistance in the original power cord. From the plug head back to the motorized cord reel (I took the panel off the reel with all the cord pulled out). Fine. Then from the plug head to the ATS and that's where I found the one hot line was open and the other hot line had a lot of resistance. The neutral and the ground both ohm-ed out fine. So, there is a problem between the cord reel and the ATS on my RV. I went to Big R (similar to Tractor Supply) and got some 6/3 wire (20') and a Cooper 50amp male plug end and made a new cord. I took the guts out of the old ATS and used some 6-gage wire nuts to splice in my new cord directly to the load side and everything works again. I bought a new ATS (PD52) and I will deal with that and the cord reel when the weather is nicer. I now wish I had bought the PD52DCSDV like you.
Your situation sounds a bit like mine, so I would also check your power cord if you haven't already.
