Can't Disconnect Water Lines?

hut

Active Member
Hey, all! New guy on the block.... We just bought a 2012 Big Country after having owned a couple other units (Jayco / Kodiak). We're enjoying it, until I got a drip coming from the bottom of the rig and then realized the carpet under the storage is soaked. I found the leak (the connection into the water heater) and tried to put a new clamp on, but to no avail. I then decided to take the entire line off to be able to work on it outside. It was then I find a screw in connection into the main water inlet that has no way to be removed (the connection is solid). It is clamped from there to the hot water tank. So, I'm assuming I have to replace the entire line starting all the way from the main inlet? That's crazy to me....

Has anyone done any modifications so the lines can be taken off without breaking the clamps?

Help! :)
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi hut,

Congratulations on the new-to-you Big Country and welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. There's a great bunch of helpful people here so I'm sure you'll hear from some of them shortly.
 

Bones

Well-known member
Hey, all! New guy on the block.... We just bought a 2012 Big Country after having owned a couple other units (Jayco / Kodiak). We're enjoying it, until I got a drip coming from the bottom of the rig and then realized the carpet under the storage is soaked. I found the leak (the connection into the water heater) and tried to put a new clamp on, but to no avail. I then decided to take the entire line off to be able to work on it outside. It was then I find a screw in connection into the main water inlet that has no way to be removed (the connection is solid). It is clamped from there to the hot water tank. So, I'm assuming I have to replace the entire line starting all the way from the main inlet? That's crazy to me....

Has anyone done any modifications so the lines can be taken off without breaking the clamps?

Help! :)


If they are pex you probably have to replace the line and the fittings. They are not that expensive. Home depot carries them

- - - Updated - - -

If you make a few more post you'll be able to post pictures so we all can see what you are talking about and possibly help further.
 

sengli

Well-known member
Quite often when these rigs are built. The plumbing runs in are a pre-assembled assembly that goes into the coach with minimal effort. I have done a lot of re-plumbing on our rig, to suit my needs. PEX connections are super easy to deal with, with the right tools. You will need a pex clamp tool, and a cutter for the tubing. Then just get the clamps, which are not re-usable...and the fittings you need and just do it!

The screw on connection you are having issues with, is the type you need to watch the most. Over time the rubber gasket in those can shrink, and begin to leak.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
If it’s PEX, it isn’t difficult to cut the line at a point where you can replace it with a section that has a functioning connection on it. Just need to be sure to cut it square and use a Sharkbite union to join it.


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hut

Active Member
This line is actually a hose....

I think I see a good day of RE-doing before long. It’s not rocket science; it’ll just be a little time consuming. But it’ll be the way I want it when it’s finished! :)

We had to travel to Louisville today for a conference. When I get home next week I’ll post my progress.

Thanks for the responses! Look forward to hanging out!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
They mix PEX and hose in the plumbing depending on the need for flexibility. In that case, Sharkbite won’t work, but standard PEX fittings and cinch or clamp rings can be used to splice the line. That entails buying the tools to assemble them. Screw clamps are not recommended for that.


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sengli

Well-known member
The only two lines on my last two rigs that were hoses instead of pex runs were, the one that comes from the water pump, to the UDC. And the black tank flush line.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
He said it was a hose with a threaded fitting on it that leaked. The connections to the outside shower on mine are hose, not PEX, but are connected to the PEX supply system.


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hut

Active Member
Hey, all! A little update and question.

When I returned home late Saturday, I crawled into the cargo bay and installed a new fitting on the hose and all seemed well until late last night the OTHER (out) hose on the heater began spewing.... I now have a belly full of water again! :( Upon inspection, the hose for the black tank clean out is also very deteriorated and has a crack where it is bent around some wood structure.

The question: is there a problem with removing all of the hoses and installing pex everywhere? I understand it would take a few fittings to get through the framing, but I’m losing faith in the hoses!
 

Bones

Well-known member
Hey, all! A little update and question.

When I returned home late Saturday, I crawled into the cargo bay and installed a new fitting on the hose and all seemed well until late last night the OTHER (out) hose on the heater began spewing.... I now have a belly full of water again! :( Upon inspection, the hose for the black tank clean out is also very deteriorated and has a crack where it is bent around some wood structure.

The question: is there a problem with removing all of the hoses and installing pex everywhere? I understand it would take a few fittings to get through the framing, but I’m losing faith in the hoses!


If the item is fixed and doesn't move pex is good. If the item vibrates a lot like a water pump you might want to use a combo of pex and flexible hose.
 

hut

Active Member
If the item is fixed and doesn't move pex is good. If the item vibrates a lot like a water pump you might want to use a combo of pex and flexible hose.

Makes sense. Thanks! I think I’ll replace all the hoses and fittings. Cheap insurance, maybe.
 

hut

Active Member
I have all my parts, but the clamp rings won’t fit over the hose. The next size up is way too big. Any secrets?
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Clamp rings are 1/2” or 3/4” (smallest sizes). Those are the copper looking clamp ones. The stainless steel cinch rings may work a little better. Different clamping methods require different tools.


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Oldelevatorman

Well-known member
Clamp rings are 1/2” or 3/4” (smallest sizes). Those are the copper looking clamp ones. The stainless steel cinch rings may work a little better. Different clamping methods require different tools.


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There are clamps and crimp rings. I had to get the copper crimp rings for my 'Shark' crimp tool. That's what was specified with the tool. They work like a champ. Don't know how the clamps are used, maybe a different tool or application.


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sengli

Well-known member
All of my PEX fittings and plumbing runs in my last two coaches were 1/2. I had one fitting to a braided white vinyl looking hose, it was hard to get that 1/2 clamp over the end of it, but I did it and clamped it to the fitting.
 

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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
There are clamps and crimp rings. I had to get the copper crimp rings for my 'Shark' crimp tool. That's what was specified with the tool. They work like a champ. Don't know how the clamps are used, maybe a different tool or application.


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Yes, they both require a different tool. I acquired the equipment to do either one and keep a short section of PEX tubing on hand just in case. I did have to remove and replace a leaking fitting a few years ago.


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hut

Active Member
All of my PEX fittings and plumbing runs in my last two coaches were 1/2. I had one fitting to a braided white vinyl looking hose, it was hard to get that 1/2 clamp over the end of it, but I did it and clamped it to the fitting.


I'm going back to try again.... I wrestled with it for quite a while last night, but couldn't make it slide over.

- - - Updated - - -

There are clamps and crimp rings. I had to get the copper crimp rings for my 'Shark' crimp tool. That's what was specified with the tool. They work like a champ. Don't know how the clamps are used, maybe a different tool or application.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes. Mine are all crimps. I have both tools, but thought I'd stay with the crimps since that was what the factory used.

A plumber in Lowe's last night told me to tighten the crimps up periodically. Just re-squeeze the connections.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
On the white vinyl hose, I've worked with a couple different ones. Some, I could get a 1/2" cinch ring on and get it cinched. Others, with a slightly thicker jacket, I had to use a small hose (screw) clamp. So you can get by using a hose clamp on the vinyl hose, especially if that hose is slipped over a brass barbed fitting. Note thought that you cannot use a hose clamp on PEX pipe as you cannot get the PEX swedged down over the barb - PEX it just too tough.
 

hut

Active Member
Well, lots of rolling around on a wet floor today....but no leaks currently. Installed some pex and replaced some deteriorated hose. Had to used hose clamps on the hose, but all of that is low pressure except the short pieces coming from the pump. It’s been a good education and I now know the plumbing of a Big Country! :)

Thanks for all the feedback!

DH
 
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