Kevin & Celeste, That big rear shade can be a real pain. A couple of key things to remember. Only put enough tension on the cords to hold the shade. When you raise the lower section, the upper section should stay put. If you tension the cords too much they will wear and break. You should be able to hold one side with one hand and raise or lower the other to match and then as Jim says, with even tension it should be fine. If all else fails, do like us and replace it with wooden blinds.
Does anybody have any suggestions for making my day/night shades straight across all the way from top to bottom? I have a slight slanting in my rear shade.
Thanks
Lefty,
Roll up blinds like those used in some class A's (roll up like shades) are also available and they can be installed as electric units. Not inexpensive however. To do the back window is about $500 (electric - installed). Bradd and Hall Furniture does custom blind installations in Elkhart, Indiana.
Jim
Gary, Depending on which window you are working on the valences are attached a little differently. Some are through the head/top piece up into a cabinet bottom. You will need an extended shank on a cordless drill or screwdriver to reach. There are usually 2 and maybe 3 screws. There may be a screw on the upper outside corner through a fold in the material and there is also a screw in the side panels lower outside corner through a fold in the material. For the shade, the header is attached either to the wall or window frame with 2 screws. Here is a diagram posted for the routing of the cords. If you are doing a shade with 2 cords, follow lines 1 and 2.Rog, It's been awhile. I have a shade that just broke it's line. Can you give me any tips as far as getting the square headed screw driver onto the screws to get the valances off the wall so I can get to the shade itself. I think, at this point, I will re-thread new line and put the shade back up. It is a small one, so just the 2 lines are threaded thru.
Any help (step by step) to make this job easier is much appreciated.
Thanks and a Merry Christmas to all the forum members.
Sorry Gary, I meant 1 and 4 for the strings. Lin had a huge sewing needle that we used. It's more of a PITA to thread because you almost have to re-assemble the shade as you thread it. Once you've done it for the first time, doing it again is much easier. Did I mention we found some replacement cord in a sporting goods store. We used Bow Fishing string. I believe it was 80# test. Works great and isn't too expensive.Thanks for the reply, Ray. That helps. I'm a bit confused on the string route. If I follow strings 1 and 2, they both come out on the same side .
Is there a "special" tool /needle required to thread the string through the holes?
Thanks, Gary