Electric stabilizer jacks locked up

[Steadfast]

Went to put down electric rear stabilizers and nothing happened when I hit the switch. I checked the fuse and it was good, so I figured it was a bad switch. I pulled the switch and verified that there was 12 volts to the switch.
I decided that I was going to crank them down to use before we can get the unit in to the dealer, but it will not crank. It is locked in place and can't turn in either direction. Any ideas?
We have a 2011 BH 3670RL. Thanks.
Craig

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Rust build up? run up to far on the last trip? Bad ground? Oh wait it wont hand crank. Okay try a bigger crank, but I am sure you have already tried that.

 

[JohnDar]

That's unusual that it won't hand crank. When mine failed last fall, I was able to crank them with a little bit of muscle to overcome the resistance of the motor. If the screw is rusted, it may take some ooommph to overcome it.

If you're getting absolutely no reaction from the motor, chances are very good that the motor case has leaked and there is corrosion inside. The springs for the brushes are about as thin a wire as you could imagine and located right near where water can intrude. I disassembled mine, replaced the cheap springs with pieces cut from a ball point pen and reinstalled it a few weeks ago. Works like new. Used some Rescue Tape to wrap around the joint between the motor casing and the gear box to seal it. New motors are pricey, but with a little work, you could just as easily use a cordless drill with an adapter to fit the manual socket to operate them. By the way, the manual crank rod will also fit the socket that the motor runs into. If my motor dies again, I might just cut the armature off and grind it into an adapter for a drill.

 

[Steadfast]

Thanks for the ideas. This unit was bought in September and is still under our initial warranty, so I will let the dealer replace what is necessary. We are just trying to get it to work now while camping/RVing.
Craig

 

[PUG]

try a big whack with a big hammer. Is there any motor noise when you hit the switch?

 

[Steadfast]

No motor noise or vibration. I put enough force with the crank to make intentions in the crank sleeve.
Craig

 

[wdk450]

No motor noise or vibration. I put enough force with the crank to make intentions in the crank sleeve.
Craig

Just a thought from someone who hasn't fooled with these.
Did you try the crank in both directions? Maybe with gearing tuning the crank clockwise lowers the gear. Also mechanically shocking (tapping the crank with a hammer in both directions) can free a stuck rotating item.
I know this keeps getting me on lugnuts.

 

[JohnDar]

How did you manage to make indentations in this??

View attachment 18609

With this??

View attachment 18610

Unless they've changed the design, this is what I know as the rear stabilizer manual crank socket. The rod tip goes INTO the socket and engages the pin in the middle. When I got mine, the slot in the crank rod was not wide enough until the dealer modified it for me.

 

[Steadfast]

The manual crank has been "updated". It has a pin through the shaft on the jacks. The crank has slots similar to your picture, but is greater in size and fits over the shaft on the jacks. I have now managed to break off the pin that goes through the shaft, and yes, while using a hammer.
Craig

 

[JohnDar]

You mean something like this? This is the spare tire socket on mine. It was also the same wrench for manually operating the OEM front jacks...that are now history. The socket on the wrench slipped over the rod and engaged the pin.

When I removed the motor on my stabilizers, I found the fitting for the motor armature was the same as the other side. But unless you have a crank rod like I described earlier, you would not be able to do much there, either.

View attachment 18619View attachment 18620

 

[Steadfast]

Yes, that looks similar to my manual stabilizer jacks drive.
Craig