Electrical problem " Solved"

[Safari806]

Hi,
i was wondering if any can point me in some direction to a solution. I have a 2013 Eldridge. In the electrical panel, I have three spade fuses that have a red led that lights up when I remove that fuse. The rest do not when I remove them. According to the legend on the panel this indicates an 'open circuit'. Is this something I fix myself.

These three fuses are: remote(?), bedroom and storage. Yes I did look at the GFCI and did a voltage test at the outlets in the bedroom.

However another problem has presented itself. The microwave when plugged in, when you open the door, the turntable rotates slowly and there are not lights on the display. I don't think this is on the same circuit as those circuits above.

I did discover a 40a fuse at the battery was blown and I replaced that one. Maybe there others unknown to me. It would be nice if some sort of wiring diagram was available. Thanks to anyone who can help me.

 

[danemayer]

Re: Electrical problem

Hi Safari806,

Let me clarify a few things.

Some lights and appliances in your RV run on 120V AC. Others run on 12V DC. The GFCI is an outlet that has 120V AC and a mechanism to protect you from dangerous shocks by cutting power if it detects a problem.

The spade type fuses with the LED next to each are part of the 12V DC system. Those LEDs will illuminate under 2 conditions: the fuse is blown or removed, AND there's a load on the circuit providing a path to ground. So if you pull a fuse, AND the load (device) on that circuit is switched ON, the LED will light up to let you know there's a problem. If you pull a fuse, but the device on that circuit is OFF, the LED will not light up.

Those 12V DC spade type fuses have nothing to do with the GFCI outlet. Completely separate.

The 12V DC things in your coach get power from 2 sources: the battery, and the Power Converter. The Power Converter also keeps the battery charged. The Power Converter has 120V AC when you're plugged into shore power, and converts it to 12V DC to send to the fuse box and to the battery.

The microwave runs on 120V AC. So you have to be plugged into shore power for it to get power. (Or you have to have an inverter and a lot of batteries, or solar power, or some other source of power that can be changed into 120V AC).

So the problem with your microwave sounds like it's just a problem with the microwave oven. If it had no power, the turntable wouldn't turn. You may have blown a fuse or fusable link inside the microwave. They're not usually very user serviceable, so you may have to get an appliance technician to help. But just in case, try plugging something else into the outlet used by the microwave. A lamp, a hair dryer, or anything that will verify you have power at the outlet.

 

[Safari806]

Re: Electrical problem

Thanks for your reply.

Is it possible that bad batteries also cause problems. Both batteries are now dead(?) and I have no lights at all. I have power at outlets I have checked, but no power at the lights. Apparently the batteries had discharged when I found the 40a fuse blown. This may have caused the lights not to work. I am in the process of charging the batteries now, but now I suspect that the converter is not working.

Background: We had gone camping three weeks ago and connected to a pedestal with 50a. During the night, there were three power bumps which I believe took out (microwave, coffee pot and wife's electric blanket control This may have been the cause of everything. Thanks again.

 

[Safari806]

Re: Electrical problem

After doing some checking, it appears the converter is bad. I get zero voltage at the dc end. I have 120v coming in.

Question: Is the WFCO WF-9865 repairable.

I just had a conversation with a local rv shop. He says the above converter is over kill and only recommends a 45 amp converter.

Question: Why would Heartland install a 65 amp converter if its not needed.

There are a number of this type of converter available at a wide range of prices. Does it matter which brand is used? and do I need to stay at 65 amps.

thanks

 

[danemayer]

Re: Electrical problem

Thanks for your reply.

Is it possible that bad batteries also cause problems. Both batteries are now dead(?) and I have no lights at all. I have power at outlets I have checked, but no power at the lights. Apparently the batteries had discharged when I found the 40a fuse blown. This may have caused the lights not to work. I am in the process of charging the batteries now, but now I suspect that the converter is not working.

Background: We had gone camping three weeks ago and connected to a pedestal with 50a. During the night, there were three power bumps which I believe took out (microwave, coffee pot and wife's electric blanket control This may have been the cause of everything. Thanks again.

If your power converter is working, when connected to shore power, the lights and other 12V DC stuff should all work. So with lights and other stuff not working, and batteries dead, I think your electrical problem may have also fried the converter.

If you haven't already done so, you need to get an Electrical Management System (EMS) which includes surge protector and other protective functions. Progressive has a lifetime warranty.

 

[Safari806]

Re: Electrical problem

Solved!!
Just to let everyone know I solved my electrical problems. It was the converter. I installed a new one and everything is in working order (except the micro oven) including the post I made earlier. Thanks to danemayer in pointing me to the user supplied 12v diagram.

In my earlier post, I had stated that my remote control for operating the front landing gear, rear landing gear, bedroom slide, main slide, awing, worked for all these components. Sometime last year, the bedroom slide would not work with the switch on the inside of the trailer, the front landing gear seemed like it had no power to raise the trailer (I had read somewhere that the front landing gear will not work unless a battery is installed, irregardless if you are connected to shore power).

Yes it does work because I did test this.

Replacing the converter did the trick. I had no idea that the 12v system had that great an impact in operation of the trailer and I think that the power bump we had earlier, hastened the death of the converter. (I believe it was bad to begin with).

I will be investing in a electrical surge suppressor.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[mlpeloquin]

Re: Electrical problem

Solved!!
Just to let everyone know I solved my electrical problems. It was the converter. I installed a new one and everything is in working order (except the micro oven) including the post I made earlier. Thanks to danemayer in pointing me to the user supplied 12v diagram.

In my earlier post, I had stated that my remote control for operating the front landing gear, rear landing gear, bedroom slide, main slide, awing, worked for all these components. Sometime last year, the bedroom slide would not work with the switch on the inside of the trailer, the front landing gear seemed like it had no power to raise the trailer (I had read somewhere that the front landing gear will not work unless a battery is installed, irregardless if you are connected to shore power).

Yes it does work because I did test this.

Replacing the converter did the trick. I had no idea that the 12v system had that great an impact in operation of the trailer and I think that the power bump we had earlier, hastened the death of the converter. (I believe it was bad to begin with).

I will be investing in a electrical surge suppressor.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Get the Progressive. I have both the Progressive, installed in the service bay, and the Surge Guard external that I originally purchased. Keep it as a backup if the Progressive ever fails. If the Progressive fails, I will have it repaired and reinstall. Watch your parks power as well. Our Progressive has cut power off many times when the AC power dipped below the 105VAC. Some electronics don't like even 105VAC such as a inductive stove top. On my to purchase list is a 50 amp Hughes autoformer.

 

[TravelTiger]

The Progressive EMS is a lifesaver. Yesterday we arrived at a park, hooked up, and were just settling in when the EMS tripped. Went to look at the EMS and it was reading E2, which is open ground! Also one leg was 108, while other was 115. We called park hosts that came and discovered lose wiring, along with a plug that wasn't making a good, tight connection. They replaced the plug and tightened wiring and all was good, 118-121 the rest of our stay.


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