We purchased a 2011, 3250TS Big Country and are leveling the RV manually. I am struggling to find the best spots to determine how level we are. There are no "levelers" mounted to the RV and I am using a stand alone level to measure. I haven't found the best spots to level side to side and front to back. Any suggestions? I also level the RV before extending the slide outs. Advice? We have had other fifth wheels which had the "levelers" on the RV. any other advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Manually leveling a fifth wheel
- Thread starter Chasman83
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Chasman83,
Welcome to the Heartland Family and to the Heartland Owners Forum. You'll find a lot of friendly people here who are willing to share their knowledge and experience. There's also a wealth of information in the forum.
We have an auto-leveling system, but occasionally level manually. We have stick-on levels applied in slightly above and in front of the doorside basement hatch (front-to-rear), and in the center front, under the pinbox, just above the front hatch.
Here's a link to the style we have. They're relatively inconspicuous, yet they are easy for me to use. You can find them at many RV dealers.
Welcome to the Heartland Family and to the Heartland Owners Forum. You'll find a lot of friendly people here who are willing to share their knowledge and experience. There's also a wealth of information in the forum.
We have an auto-leveling system, but occasionally level manually. We have stick-on levels applied in slightly above and in front of the doorside basement hatch (front-to-rear), and in the center front, under the pinbox, just above the front hatch.
Here's a link to the style we have. They're relatively inconspicuous, yet they are easy for me to use. You can find them at many RV dealers.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
I have a LVL-1 electronic level and place the transmitter on the kitchen counter near the sink. That puts it almost centered over the axles, which is what they recommend. If you have a more open floorplan, putting it on the floor in the same area is advised. Lacking the LVL-1, using standard carpenters levels works, too. Once you find "level" for your rig, apply the stick-on bubbles to the front and side near your jack switch. You could also mount one of those larger bubble levels on the pin box, once you're sure it's level.
So long as any swinging doors don't fall open or closed by themselves, you're probably as level as you can be. Another indicator is to look at the water in the toilet bowl. Is is uniformly distributed around the bowl or does it look like it's off to one side? Same with water in the sinks.
Now that I have the Ground Control jack system, leveling is a much simpler chore. No piling of Leggo's or boards under the tires, pulling the rig back and forth. If the site is really cock-eyed, all I need do is put my cribbing pads under the low side jacks before dropping them. And it doesn't leak, get dementia, suck your wallet dry (as much), or go bump in the dark of night.
So long as any swinging doors don't fall open or closed by themselves, you're probably as level as you can be. Another indicator is to look at the water in the toilet bowl. Is is uniformly distributed around the bowl or does it look like it's off to one side? Same with water in the sinks.
Now that I have the Ground Control jack system, leveling is a much simpler chore. No piling of Leggo's or boards under the tires, pulling the rig back and forth. If the site is really cock-eyed, all I need do is put my cribbing pads under the low side jacks before dropping them. And it doesn't leak, get dementia, suck your wallet dry (as much), or go bump in the dark of night.
I have always leveled by using a bullseye bubble level on the middle of of freezer floor, then I have installed bubble levels on the outside of the unit. This process is done once, then bubble levels are used. Refrigerator being level is critical. Even now with the auto level, I checked for refrig being level the first time I used auto level.
