RM1350 Frig not working but Freezer working fine

[2psnapod2]

We just moved to a new location. Before here the frig was working fine. Now when we get here, frig is running at about 50 degrees. Ice in freezer is fine. Any idea as to what to look for? I have read that if the frig is not working right, the frig part goes first.

I have tried both AC and LP and it seems the same.

 

[cookie]

Michael, about the only things that I can think of is to be sure that the door flapper is closing properly and make sure that the sensor on the upper left wall is still in place.

Peace
Dave

 

[danemayer]

Hi guys,

Usually if the freezer is still working the problem with the frig is an air leak. Check the flap to make sure it's not binding. Dometic released a kit about 2 years ago to get a more positive closure on the flap. Also check the drain tube on the outside. If the cap is missing, you'll get outside air leaking in. And check the seals around the doors. Make sure nothing inside is keeping the doors from sealing well.

 

[2psnapod2]

Thanks guys. That was about all I could think of too. I will have to pull the cold hard cash out I guess. For the door seal test that is.

 

[wdk450]

While an air leak in the cabinet is the most likely cause of your overtemperature problems, don't forget to take off the rear outside access covers and check the heat transfer airflow path for obstructions, or ways that the upward convective flow of warmed air could bypass the cooling fins. I really don't understand why the manufacturers of these refrigerators don't put a panel of sheetmetal over the entire back of the coils so that the heat exchange airflow could be properly directed over the coils. Since I packed insulation on both sides and the top of my unit, along with directing and baffling the heat exchange airflow 3 years ago, my refrig/freezer has worked PERFECTLY, even in the hottest outside temperatures.

 

[boatto5er]

I had a problem with ours until I "forced" the airflow over the external fins by putting a wedge behind the piece of sheet metal at the top of the reefer cavity. That pushed all the air through the fins rather than a large portion of it bypassing the fins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[2psnapod2]

Hey guys, I have been looking into this issue and I have found that 1 of my fans in the back (Computer Fans) is not working. Switched over the the wiring at the plugs and the other fan worked. So it is not the fans themselves. As I look at the wiring diagram, I see that the Red wires are joined and then go into a Tstat. 1) Does anyone know where this Tstat is? 2) What would cause one to work and not the other. As I see they are basically twinned.

 

[cookie]

I didn't know that they were individually controlled.
The sensor that controls my fans is on the cooling fins near the top of the unit.
In the past I have installed two larger fans along with one of the OEM's

Peace
Dave

 

[wdk450]

You will find a lot of outside venting and inside cold air circulation cooling fan options here: http://rvcoolingunit.com/Cooling-Performance-Enhancing-Items-C320215.aspx?sid=298

 

[TandT]

Bill,
Great stuff. Thanks

 

[2psnapod2]

I just found the tstat or thermal sensor that is located on the coil. I disconnected the red wire going down to the relay and then the other connector that had both red wires going into it. I then jumpered the 2 with a paper clip. Both fans are now working. Now it is time to wait and see if the temp rises. Wish us luck!

 

[gwalter]

I had to do the same thing with mine and it is working good now. I did put a toggle switch in line to make turning the fans on and off as I needed them.

 

[boatto5er]

I just found the tstat or thermal sensor that is located on the coil. I disconnected the red wire going down to the relay and then the other connector that had both red wires going into it. I then jumpered the 2 with a paper clip. Both fans are now working. Now it is time to wait and see if the temp rises. Wish us luck!

Is that a UL approved paper clip?

 

[wdk450]

I just found the tstat or thermal sensor that is located on the coil. I disconnected the red wire going down to the relay and then the other connector that had both red wires going into it. I then jumpered the 2 with a paper clip. Both fans are now working. Now it is time to wait and see if the temp rises. Wish us luck!

With a refrigerator, I think you want the temperature to go down, NOT to rise.

 

[2psnapod2]

Is that a UL approved paper clip?

Of coarse it is. Could never get away with it in the oil patch if it wasn't! LOL

 

[2psnapod2]

With a refrigerator, I think you want the temperature to go down, NOT to rise.

Yes I would have hoped it was lower, but it still has not. We have now put the frig stuff in our new high tech Coleman cooler! Walmar'ts finest!

 

[2psnapod2]

Just a follow up. They replaced the cooling unit and it is working great. It must have had a obstruction in the fridge part.

 

[PJS010LGC]

Hi guys,

Usually if the freezer is still working the problem with the frig is an air leak. Check the flap to make sure it's not binding. Dometic released a kit about 2 years ago to get a more positive closure on the flap. Also check the drain tube on the outside. If the cap is missing, you'll get outside air leaking in. And check the seals around the doors. Make sure nothing inside is keeping the doors from sealing well.

Dan,

We have had a problem for our fridge cooling being intermittent, sometimes cold sometimes warm and discovered that this corresponded with the position of the middle flap. A gentle close of the left door would not flip this flap into the closed position. Once we discovered this, no more temperature issues when we remembered. I looked at the guide for the flap at the bottom to see if I could massage it for a more aggressive ramp to close the flap. It sounds like Dometic may have addressed this with the kit that you mentioned. How can I get one of these kits. I'd appreciate any assistance you could provide.

Regards, John

 

[danemayer]

Dan,

We have had a problem for our fridge cooling being intermittent, sometimes cold sometimes warm and discovered that this corresponded with the position of the middle flap. A gentle close of the left door would not flip this flap into the closed position. Once we discovered this, no more temperature issues when we remembered. I looked at the guide for the flap at the bottom to see if I could massage it for a more aggressive ramp to close the flap. It sounds like Dometic may have addressed this with the kit that you mentioned. How can I get one of these kits. I'd appreciate any assistance you could provide.

Regards, John

Call Dometic at 800-544-4881 and explain the problem. Let them know you've heard about a kit that fixes the problem ask if they'll send you the flap kit at no charge. You may have to give them part numbers 3851102024 and 3851103022. Takes 5-10 minutes to install with a screwdriver.

You can also lubricate the flap to improve closure.

 

[2psnapod2]

Our issue was the cooling unit. Hope yours does not turn out to be that. But Dan has given you good info.