Those with 6pt Leveling

SeattleLion

Well-known member
OK your's are like everyone else's they all work in pairs the front two, left center and rear and the right center and rear
No, not exactly. The back 2on each side work together. The landing gear first moves together to get front-to-back level. Then the rear jacks on each side go down. Then the landing gear on one side along with the rear jacks on that side move together for side-to-side level. This dance is repeated until the trailer is level in all directions.
 

bobca1

Well-known member
System is wonderful in the paved RV park!
My advice is make sure you know how it works - both auto and manual mode - if you are going to be heading off road (e.g. those of us with toy haulers). It definitely does not "auto level" in conditions that are not already practically level within 2 degrees of level I think? I learned this the hard way. Took me over 2 hours and multiple attempts of maneuvering around the primitive dirt campground, unhitching trying to level only to get an error, and the system refusing to obey my manual commands, having to hitch back up, move the trailer and try again... Finally after pulling one side up on blocks to get the left-right close to level, then shimming the feet with 2x6 blocks so the jacks would not run out of range got it pretty close to level. To top it all off no instructions and no cell service so no youtube. But I know how it works now!
 

bobca1

Well-known member
btw, how strong are the rear jacks? Does anyone else find that they seem to drag pretty easy pulling out of parking lots, or trying to get to that "perfect" primitive campsite?
 

porthole

Retired
btw, how strong are the rear jacks? Does anyone else find that they seem to drag pretty easy pulling out of parking lots, or trying to get to that "perfect" primitive campsite?

It depends on how close they are to the rear of the rear axle. The further away the greater the chance of dragging.
Mine have never hit anywhere except my steep driveway.

So, since the driveway was a "2 hit" for every trip, I raised all four rear jacks one hole. Occasionally now I do not have enough travel because the jacks are raised, so I will use blocks when needed.

If you decide to raise the jacks, all four need to be set at the same level. Otherwise you can easily be in a situation where two jacks are fully extended and two jacks are still extending, which would unevenly load the frame.
 

gbagamer

Member
Does anyone have to pause when using the system? When still hooked to the truck I do not have enough battery power to get the front legs all the way down before the system stops. Same with the rear when hooked to the pedestal. Is this normal or do I need to check my batteries?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
It's impossible to say for sure until some trouble shooting is done but there are a couple of things you can check or do.

Be sure to check the fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir. When everything is retracted the level should be about 1/2 inch from the top.

Another common problem is that the auto reset breaker for your system may be weak. A replacement can be had for about $10 from an RV dealer, auto parts store or marine store.

Disconnect the neutral battery wire and disconnect from shore power when changing the breaker. About a 5 minute repair job.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Does anyone have to pause when using the system? When still hooked to the truck I do not have enough battery power to get the front legs all the way down before the system stops. Same with the rear when hooked to the pedestal. Is this normal or do I need to check my batteries?

If "system stops" means there's a few second delay, that's probably the 12V mini circuit breaker tripping.

If "system stops" means the control panel goes dark and reboots, you probably have a low battery on the coach. The tow vehicle battery doesn't pass enough power to do the job. Cycle the leveling control panel to read the battery voltage with tow vehicle disconnected.

If the voltage is low, you'll need to charge up the battery. You may find it's not getting charged for some reason. One possibility is that the manual-reset 12V breaker between power converter and battery has tripped and needs to be reset. Take a look at our 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide.

I've also attached some pictures showing the breakers.
 

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gbagamer

Member
The volt meter on the readout quickly drops to the 12 volt range and slowly increases to the 13 range before the buttons will let me raise or lower the legs.
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
Another Leveler not working - I have been reading this thread. Last week I was checking over my BH to prepare for a trip and my Auto Level System will not work. In addition the slides will not retract either. We had this same problem on a trip in New Hampshire back in September - we wound up at a Camping World - had a loose battery terminal and a wire to the hydraulic pump selonoid had came off.

Now I have the same symptons. The first thing I checked was the little circuit breaker on the terminal strip near the batteries. It's OK. Then I checked and tightened all battery connections all good. I checked all of the connectors going to the pump. Nothing helped.
I then purchased new batteries and installed them. No Help. ( the others had been weak )

When I activate Leveling, Retract, Slides Out, etc. - you can hear switches or something clicking but, the pump does not run.

I downloaded all the help manuals from Heartland but, have not been able to locate the problem.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
Hey Dan -

After finally finding my voltmeter and testing and testing ( thought the batteries were dead ) the Voltmeter did not work! Went back to the store ( got batteries earlier ) and bought a new voltmeter. I am getting 13V DC on both sides of the pump.
 

avvidclif

Well-known member
Hey Dan -

After finally finding my voltmeter and testing and testing ( thought the batteries were dead ) the Voltmeter did not work! Went back to the store ( got batteries earlier ) and bought a new voltmeter. I am getting 13V DC on both sides of the pump.

If you are getting 13v on both sides of the pump then the ground is not hooked up. My guess.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hey Dan -

After finally finding my voltmeter and testing and testing ( thought the batteries were dead ) the Voltmeter did not work! Went back to the store ( got batteries earlier ) and bought a new voltmeter. I am getting 13V DC on both sides of the pump.

Ok, so you know you're getting some voltage to the pump. Assuming enough amps are getting through, the next question is about the ground. With the battery cut off, and the power converter off or shore power disconnected, unfasten the ground wire from the pump and check continuity of the disconnected wire to frame ground on the trailer. Btw, if you were not operating any switches when measuring voltage on both sides, I would have expected 13V on one side and 0 V on the other.

If you have voltage on one side, and a good ground on the other side, I would suspect the pump.

Is there any indication that the motor is trying to run when a slide or landing gear switch is activated? If so, I'd use a drill with hex bit to run the pump manually to see if that frees it up. You should open a valve manually or via a switch when trying this.
 

Georgia_Biker

Well-known member
Dan-

I cut the battery off and disconnected the shore power. I removed the ground wire from the pump. I got zero readings at all points. Then I hooked everything back up, turned on the battery, and hooked up the shore power. Then I took a jumper wire and jumped both connectors on the pump - nothing ( I thought it would make the motor react ). I then checked the system and the pump started working. I ran the jacks up and down and the slides in and out about 6 times. No more failures. Is this weird?
 
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