Underbelly heater

[GoatsRock]

Hello All,

This is our first winter with a fifth wheel (or any camper for that matter) and we have a trip planned in December. We have an appointment to have our fifth wheel winterized in mid-November, but it may dip below freezing before then. If so, my thought is that we can just turn on the heat to keep things from freezing. Is that an accurate assumption?

Also, when we did our walk-through, our rep told us that one of the unmarked buttons on the panel was for the underbelly heater. From what I've read on the forums, it seems like the underbelly heater is just hot air from the furnace directed at the water tank... is that so, or is it something completely separate that needs it's own on/off switch? Any info on how to operate/when to use the underbelly heater is greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

 

[cemill]

The switch is most likely for the electric heating pads on the tanks.

 

[danemayer]

Hi GoatsRock,

When the furnace is running, it blows a little heated air into the underbelly. If you have the YETI option, the switch you mentioned will turn on the holding tank heating pads. There may be a 2nd switch for the fresh water line heat tape. Usually, but not always, these are marked "YETI". You have to be connected to shore power for the tank heaters to work and to keep the furnace from running the battery down.

You should review our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide for a rundown on other things you should do to protect the water systems from sub-freezing temps.

 

[Dean-Pam]

From what I have read on the forum, if it is for heating pads, ensure there is water in the tanks or risk damage to the tank itself.

 

[GoatsRock]

We don't have the Yeti package, just the standard cold weather package. So we probably don't have heating pads, right? Would that switch do anything else? I wrote down "underbelly heater" on our walk through since the switch was unlabeled... but didn't ask the walk-through rep what it actually did.

 

[jimtoo]

Check under your steps, there maybe a light for the steps or it could be for a power outlet near the awning for awning lights.

Jim M

 

[GoatsRock]

Both of those are accounted for.
It's the middle button on the left. It has a red light that illuminates when it's switched on.

 

[GoatsRock]

So on the Heartland website, the "Features" list includes "12 volt heat pads on holding tanks." Will that be enough to get us through a cold snap if one should pass through before we can winterize? If so, we'll need to fill the holding tanks first, correct?

Is that something we would keep on while we are camping in December if it's cold?

 

[danemayer]

So on the Heartland website, the "Features" list includes "12 volt heat pads on holding tanks." Will that be enough to get us through a cold snap if one should pass through before we can winterize? If so, we'll need to fill the holding tanks first, correct?

Is that something we would keep on while we are camping in December if it's cold?

It does list 12V heating pads on the holding tanks. On most models they're 110V, but the heating pad manufacturer does make 12V versions, so maybe you do have them.

They will protect the holding tanks from freezing. They don't protect the water feed line from the fresh tank, or the pump, or the city water inlet valve, or the outside shower, etc. You'll have to take additional steps to protect those things.

 

[GWRam]

So on the Heartland website, the "Features" list includes "12 volt heat pads on holding tanks." Will that be enough to get us through a cold snap if one should pass through before we can winterize? If so, we'll need to fill the holding tanks first, correct?

Is that something we would keep on while we are camping in December if it's cold?

Our Gateway has the 12V heat pads. A quick call to heartland with your VIN number can confirm the 12V vs 120V. The unidentified switch on your panel is the heat pad switch on our 3650BH.

Getting through a cold snap? Heat pads only address the holding tanks. All 5 tanks need to have at least an 1" of liquid in them for the tank to not be damaged by the pads. You will need the furnace running to have hot air blown into the enclosed belly. The only way I know to protect the outside kitchen waterline is to winterize them with antifreeze. I guess you could close the shutoff valves to the outdoor kitchen, then pull the water lines off and let them drain and drip and then reattach. Probably easier and faster to winterize with anti freeze. If you have any questions on Winterizing I'm pretty sure there is info on how to do it in the yellow box at the top of the forum page under owners guides or one of the other links.

If your only waiting to winterize because of a dealer appointment PM me through the forum I can tell you step by step how to do it. Take about 20 minutes max of your time and you wont have to pay the dealer $75-$125 to do something that costs about $16 in materials. Plus once you know how you will more likely use your unit more in the cooler seasons because you can take care of it on your own time as often as you like and not at a dealers schedule and $$$

 

[jbeletti]

It does list 12V heating pads on the holding tanks. On most models they're 110V, but the heating pad manufacturer does make 12V versions, so maybe you do have them...

I spoke to Paul Cravens, the Gateway GM about this and he confirmed the heating pads on the Gateway tanks, when so optioned are 12 volts DC. I'm not sure why we do DC pads on Gateway and AC pads on Landmark, Bighorn and Big Country.

 

[GWRam]

I spoke to Paul Cravens, the Gateway GM about this and he confirmed the heating pads on the Gateway tanks, when so optioned are 12 volts DC. I'm not sure why we do DC pads on Gateway and AC pads on Landmark, Bighorn and Big Country.

I like the 12v heat pads. I can run the heater pads when driving during winter months. 5-8 hour drive or sometimes overnight plenty long enough for tanks to freeze. I just leave the heaters pads on. Has worked for our long winter drives.

 

[TravelTiger]

I spoke to Paul Cravens, the Gateway GM about this and he confirmed the heating pads on the Gateway tanks, when so optioned are 12 volts DC. I'm not sure why we do DC pads on Gateway and AC pads on Landmark, Bighorn and Big Country.

Jim, it could be that there isn't room in the breaker box for them. When we added to our ER, that's why we went with DC pad and pipe heaters.


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[Bob&Patty]

The way I solved this issue was. I dropped the coroplast and connected a piece of 2" aluminized flex tubing to the short heat duct from the heater plenum using a piece of 1 3/4" PVC pipe and the good duct tape. I then ran it along the left (ODS) frame rail the whole length of the holding tanks. This is also where the fresh water line runs from the tank. I plugged the end of the of the flex tubing and then cut slits in the tubing about every 8". This will dump more heat into the underbelly. I also found out two things. I had more heat flow through the inside heat ducts and we now have radiant floor heating. Been great ever since. BTW, if you do this, you can make sure the water line is not up against the frame rail.

 

[jbeletti]

Paul sent me more info. The 12 volt heating pads are part of the Enter The Gateway package which is a required option on all Gateways.

 

[Bones]

Paul sent me more info. The 12 volt heating pads are part of the Enter The Gateway package which is a required option on all Gateways.

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Here I read this and I really wonder what are the upgraded radial tires? I got Towmax on mine and I ordered all the packages